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Yep me too, well not from round these parts but now living in the forest, and working in Glos. Maybe see you on a track somewhere before long @Gloskris ?

Forest of Dean tyres just outside of Lydney have a Hunter machine (and have done all my road cars), although I'd be surprised if there isn't anywhere in Gloucester itself with one?

Ouch that was a bit of a ding at Silverstone 😧. Moved my 'testing' setup upstairs as the wife had enough of my late night driving antics :wink:. Hope the op goes well mate, I tore my cruciate ligaments playing football when I was a kid, it's a pain being led up when there's stuff to do

Apologies for the delay mate, been away with work the last few weeks. Will get some for you asap if you're still in need

I thought they all had a dash airbag to be honest

24mm nut, and torx t50 for centre spindle

Just goes to show how non existent my mk1 knowledge is lol, can't beat a bit of late night eBay searching after a few beers :wink:

Im all for a bit of individuality, however Willaims or not it's a mess right?? Or am I just getting old and boring all of a sudden https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/222669301517

K Tec do also sell a cat for a 182 manifold on a 172, need a new mortgage for it mind, somewhere around £330 from memory

I can't take any credit for it to be honest, idea came from https://www.cliosport.net/members/josh.101159/ as he did it on his a while ago. Gladly get some more photos but can't get them for a few days as I'm away until Friday mate

This was still at a work in progress stage, fuse box plate has now been welded to dash support, uch bracket has been turned around and bent/manipulated to allow uch to sit upright, also clips in the other way around to normal Obviously this only works if you'e not re using the lower dash

@eon172 sorry its been so long with ref to video of my setup, still can't find my sd card with them on but i have gone through sme photos which hopefully show the difference between before and after Firstly the before, this was on new cup shocks and cheapy Amax springs from euro car parts...

Yep they will

Personally I'd avoid the screw fix ones as they're only rated to 2000kg, whilst they'd probably be fine I tend to go overboard when it comes to safety

I use a set of these in orange, have worked well with no issues http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150563285126

Forgot to grab a photo but had a look through the non existent n/s dash vent on my cup and there's definitely a green plug at the bottom of the A pillar/next to tweeter on top of the lower dash, I'm certain it's that one mate

Looks identical to the one I had, should sit roughly at the base of the n/s a pillar

Second plug (green one) goes up to interior light in the headlining and I believe no 3 (black/blue plug) is for cigarette lighter. Not 100% on the rest though, I'd also like to know what the first one is, it's never been connected to anything on my 172 to the best of my knowledge

Looks smart does that, is it one of the universal eBay ones? If so what vents have you used

I had some that were identical I think, didn't have a problem with them. Just make sure they're the same width as the bolt holes on the bottom of your seat/s

Base mount only then mate I'm afraid, have a look through here http://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/sport-seat-sliding-rails-runners/cat_169.html should give you an idea of what you'll need to attach seat to subframe

Monaco seats should be side mountable, have a look and see if there's 2 bolt holes either side, if there is then you can use side mounts. There a few options for mounting the seat the subframe, sidemounts (assuming you can use them) which fix the seat into one position, base mount with sliding...

DTA can make a loom for standard engine? I've looked at their looms for throttle bodies via PMS, but if they can/will then I'd be interested Thanks Ads

Been stupidly busy with work lately so not much has happened with the car, and with needing a break from the fun that is wiring we decided it was time to make a start with the graphics in preparation for making the grid, also keeps our sponsor happy and hopefully gets their name out a bit more...

No worries, forgot to mention i re used the original top hat nuts from the seats, rather than buying any more

That's no issue, I'm fine with rewiring aux items, it's more the immobiliser/throttle kind of things. To be honest I'm gonna double check series regs, if I can use an aftermarket ecu then I think it's the easier way around, and takes some of the cost of throttle bodies off too in the long run...

I have been debating this after drooling over some of the pms range, need to check if I can run aftermarket ecu in the race series I'm in though, which is what brought me onto thinking whether it's possible with the original ecu or not

OK so here goes :) is it possible to permanently delete/remove the uch and still retain a standard ecu? I'm fed up with wiring going everywhere as the uch no longer fits back onto its original location after having my new cage put in, and had already semi planned to build a new loom for...

If either switch is broken then the window won't work, Renault in their wisdom only use a single feed to the motor and it has to pass through both window switches. If the passenger side switch is damaged chances are that's where the fault lies I'm afriad

I've always used M8 high tensile cap head bolts (12.9's) for everything seat related Think off top of my head you'll need the following per seat 4x40mm for subframe to chassis 4x25mm for side mount to subframe 4x20mm for side mount to seat Plus a good selection of washers, Inc repair/penny...