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I'd highly reccomend (if not tried already) uninstalling all drivers for the DVD drive, and downloading specific Windows 7 drivers and installing them. Alternatively USB plug in drives are dirt cheap
I had the same problem, removed the door lock unit and took it apart, found the terminals for the motor had corroded, cleaned up with autosol and IPA and put it back together, been sweet as a nut ever since. Mind you getting to the motor behind the plastics IS fiddly
Not that helpful but this...
Odd, they where changed at the same time as the pad's and i've no vibrations until i'm actually braking. Would warped disc's cause an imbalance that bad ?
99% of my driving is motorway so they brakes get used now and then but i certainly don't mash them, they are about 3 month old !
Im exactly the same mate, nothing out of order about how you responded. Ask her to bring something to you thats work a few grand and get the dog to jump on it, see if she understands.
Hmm explains the shaking under braking, probable cause being seized piston's and or sliders ? I changed the brakes not long back with NWPerformance disk's and pads, not sure if these ones need filing like some DS2500's ?
And yeah it's side to side, odd thing is though it does not pull in any...
You need a zero level format, quite a few 3rd part app's that will do that. And as mentioned above a format only breaks the library it uses to find the data, then it simply overwrites as it goes along installing new things.
Id take a stab at incomparable driver's for windows 7, what did the laptop ship with when you purchased it ? Normally if you go to the manufactures site (Drive) and look for driver's there is normally a few different versions, had a similar problem with an SPU i had a while back
EDIT: checking...
Hmm water ain't meant to come out of the pipe im referring to, normally crappy oilly like substance. The pipe should go from the air intake flexi pipe (The bend that fits to the throttle body) If there is no connector on the bottom of the elbow it must not be the standard intake pipe, if you...
That's the one, had an experience that was similar and it was very unpleasant. Make sure it is properly connected to the air filter pipe to the side of the block, might also be split ?
p.s Carb cleaner will work wonders on that :P
Sound's like the breather is missing, small "L" shaped tube that goes from a pipe just under the throttlebody, pop a new pipe on it and connect it to the elbow on the intake and it should be fine
Pipe goes here
Yeah, 1080p on a HUUUGGEE screen would look mega silly lol It's probably more or less (Visually) the same quality you would get on a 1080p small screen. Ain't that something like the rumoured Redray ?
I've only experience with one projector (Optoma HD200) which is 1080p and the quality is bang on, same as any TV really just more temperamental to light sources (But then I guess if you have the curtains open the light can reflect from the screen's surface so it's even) My room is quite narrow...
Well one other thing to consider about the choice between TV and projector is usage, if it's going to be on alot or switched on and off regularly go for a TV as a projector's bulb can feel the strain. The optoma I went for has a bulb life of around 3000 Hour's which based on my usage should last...
As above, soon as you remove rear seat's and the tracing paper rear parcel shelf the noise goes up a fair bit, I can even hear my exhaust hiss from the backbox joint when i've got the rear out :P
I've not done anything as serious as remodelling my space to fit the kit but a simple projector with a screen and correctly positioned 5.1 kit works wonders. One thing I will say is take into consideration is windows, I've found my projector screen can become very dull 1st thing in the morning...
It took 2 and 2/3 of a thread to whip out the 1st FnF line... what's the world coming to
You could push or Toe it across the line...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqbE8rR8kAE#t=2m32s