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I'm thinking more about nudging people and cracking bumpers all the time, I agree a big bump is just that and nothing will help really. Yeah I remember now, you think it's loose enough with just that?

James' car does the same, I'm debating whether its better to be there or not when your tapping cars, might transmit the load through to the chassis legs more? Did you fit a RARB during the build?

Disks every race though for the last of the late brakers!!!

Why does everyone sell there Clio's on here just after building them.... it baffles me. Another one to be broken most likely. PS John you are out yet? Haha

How long is the show Gaz? £110 seems steep to me.

Good write up and good weekend for your first outing, looks good and some nice 'fast' lines in those pics. Have you left the honey comb behind the front bumper? Everyone's cars with aerocatches look deformed.

Someone needs to come up with an affordable brake upgrade kit for 15" wheels other than wilwood etc that's on offer as they're fast road at best. It's becoming quite apparent that standard brakes just aren't up to it with the fleet of Clio's that are racing now pushing the limits a little more...

Just what you need Busta http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?717786-16mm-Spacers-amp-Long-bolts

I could post that setup to you for a good price? If you can find a 172 cup in Lithuania you would be doing well I think, yeah it has to be a cup alternator with the cup brackets, its lower amps too.

Brembo max

The top one but its just one of the brackets with no bolts, tension rod and the alternator needed. Heres what you need in post #4 & #13. Where are you in Europe? http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?704980-Garage-clearout

Yeah I can get one fitted for less than £100 too but that's around the retail prices for them, not worth noting your insurance in some casses.

Poverty spec screen -al la 172 cup or 1.2 etc is a lot cheaper (circa £100) than the tinted version (circa £200)

Yes they are 205/45/16 federel rsr's which aren't a small tyre either and are on 7j wheels.

The price of your insurance excess!?!?

For ref Busta I have 16" et40 wheels with 10mm spacers so effectively et30 with sportline springs. I use it hard on track with no issues, it rubs the 'bulbous' piece of the arch liner away that covers the bumper bracket but after that's worn away it is perfect. ^^^Bad points for big spacers on...

Now you have one set of spacers, test them on the front and see how much/less you can get away with.

Preloading taper bearings so that they are at the right tension (manufacturers recomended).....on a diff after bearing setting you would typically use a Newton gauge on the crown wheel to measure its resistance to spin.

Not the worst figures and tbh the timing being out slightly isn't going to do much in most cases, 5 degrees the wrong way and it might have adverse affects, but then it might not.

Most semi slick (1b) championships will allow (1a) road tyres so they won't be a waste.

I know.... it wouldn't be me doing that for all the above reasons.

What did it make on the rollers?

What you really want for being savage off the line is a pulsar floor panned Micra, something else. Agree with everyone in here about the starts, there used to be a few at Crail running from 450-600bhp and were the quickest cars on the day 90% of the time, 700, 800, 900bhp scooby'a, evo's...

No fitting them to the seat rails is IMO as there is no spreader plates, I know it won't pass an M.O.T test (uk road worthiness test) There is nothing wrong with fitting them to the floor if you weld proper spreader plates like I posted in the pics.

Its nothing to do with being high mate its just bloody dangerous doing that tbh and it will sit really stupid.

What Hoofy and Mark said. You have to have an in date harness to do any MSA event or FIA for that matter. Cages don't have a life other than rust, MSA/FIA might change a ruling like they done circa 2 years ago where if your 'A' pillar bar of the cage had more than two bends in it then you...

No you can't mount side mounts directly to the floor unless you cut out all the original seat rails like this http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb251/wrx_king/mk1-172/0f5f0334.jpg and then plate the floor like this where you bolt the side mounts to the car...

The easiest and best bolt in cage would be a safety devices as it can be removed easily if the shell takes a bad knock. As said Fred is doing a group buy on a basic 6 point custom cages cage and what I have is the Oreca race cage with a few modifications which is circa £600. I don't think...

You'll regret saying that haha. Karma n all.