Search results

I set up my controller according to a link a few pages back and everything seems good. Tested using Clio Cup, first lap horrendous, then after that grip was awesome felt really good. Then used on the karts and it's so so twitchy with steering. Need to play around a little more

I have :) lol!

I'm hoping I don't need to spend anything major yet. I'll try lambda and map sensor and see if that helps.

Am I able to do that via CLiP? I've not tested anything yet, luckily I have a spare lambda which I could try too.

It shouldn't be that bad on cold start either. The only time I've seen something similar is when one my supercharged ones had the wrong map sensor and was chucking black soot out of the back! This doesn't smoke or anything but just gives me reason to think. Got @dmallett helping Sunday with...

MOT test is 0.2% carbon monoxide levels, a decat will see that raised to about 0.8-1%. My reading was 8%!! I have a new lambda and no misfiring. A lambda sensor would usually give an average MPG of about 20 if it wasn't working. The only other things at MAP sensor or the fuelling controlled...

I've found out CLiP does but I need the proper Renault file on disc and a programming code so doesn't look good. Yea I knew it only did parameters within the mapping and not deleting everything from it! I'll give that a go, otherwise looks like I'm needing to buy an RSTuner and find someone...

Older type ECU's seemed to clear stuff when left with no power for a while, I remember it from the 16v days! I didn't have it mapped it was done previously, apparently an RSTuner map. Either way it looks like it's going to cost me money then FFS! Anyone know if it's possible via CLiP to wipe...

There isn't anything to set up? Once fitted get the geometry sorted as you would with any new suspension changes, the play with the dampening until it feels right.

I'd adjust the dampening first, especially if they are full hard.

And the engine mount too? I'd recommended FK Konigsport coilovers as an excellent all rounder

So car is over fuelling, gets 30mpg on normal easy driving, failed MOT miserably. Lambda is new, it's not the cat, I've always thought it was the remap. Is there an easy may of removing it? Some older cars I believe could be reset by removing power to ECU for a long period of time. Any...

What coilovers do you have? What's your camber and toe settings? Was it the front bouncing or the rear?

f**k it, now all the good reviews are making me want this, I have no money and a holiday to pay for! FML!

I've got uprated top engine mount and exhaust mount if your interested, and I'm local ;)

Pics of your setup? Including kitchen and appliance locations.

I think I need to play this before I buy!

TDF aren't in Kimbolton anymore and haven't been for at least a year.

Lol what?! I need a picture as it's something I've never seen before!

I don't think your power figure means much with no Cambelt and 8 bent valves!

That would be putting the sock in the toaster, toaster in the sock draw is more of warning,

He could always double up and put the toaster in the sock draw?

Just plugs in the back, in place of disc changer. Why is it under the seat lol?

I've got an aux lead if you need one :)

Passenger side is gearbox side :)

The Ph2 just look narrower due to the wheel offset IIRC.

If it's the gearbox side driveshaft clicking, get it sorted asap, you don't want that exploding in the gearbox and sending needles everywhere. You also don't want the rubber perishing and splitting as your lose all your gearbox oil. And only use genuine driveshafts!

And if your having the gearbox of you'd replace the clutch and bearing too anyway so it's splitting the cost too ;) You should be able to just split the box and do it too without removing.

Yea that's clutch release bearing, I'm 99% mine did it that way round years ago

It's not your input shaft bearing, it's your clutch release bearing that's knackered. It slides over that input shaft and attaches to your clutch fork. The small part in that picture.