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I am running ITG panel at the moment too, but after the CDA I'll do the mathched inlets plus a remap and hope to see gains from these mods. (milltek cat back on aswell)
so we all should run CDA's with no caf's? I thought the general opinion was that it runs better with a caf, many said they felt improvement with the caf fitted. will make some test runs when the moment arrives with/without a caf
colder than the air in the engine bay, not by much though, as the car is on the move mostly but if the caf is short and the air drawn in a little cooler then what's the harm?
if going to get the caf near the headlight behind the grille, it will only be like 10-12 cm of tube I imagine, just a little help to get near the colder air in front. maybe in the future will leave the box with no caf, if I'll manage to make some heat shields. or leave it like above and wrap the...
this is the space for the air to come into the caf, it's not that much, but when on the move I'd imagine there won't be any lack of air:
the caf from the CDA is 70 mm, so it won't be that squeezed like the 76 mm one in the pics. I'm also thinking to place some heat insulation between the upper...
went outside and took some pics. removed the airbox and placed a 76 mm caf just to see how it fits.
this is the the place the caf ends, and the red arrows point to the nearby air sources:
again the spot where the caf ends, and the OE airbox bracket which will be removed:
view from above...
I'm on a milltek for a year now and no problem so far. People who had problems got their replacement parts no problem at all. Milltek guys are spot on as far as I know. But if I had to go with a new exhaust right now I'd probably go with the yozza which everyone praises, or with the scorpion...
Hi,
I'll get the CDA myself in a few days, and for now I'll keep the standard elbow, and thought I could squeeze a short caf to the front grilee near the headlight, as in the pic bellow. Has anyone tried it? I don't think it will draw in hot air once the car on the move. the other option is...
go with the PE2's if you want a very good all rounder, or, hankook rs-2 if you want a litlle more dry performance (higherwar rate-200 vs 240 michelin) and a smaller price ;)
I have the rs-2's on the front and they do feel better, stiffer sidewalls too vs the pe2's
they say the 565's were the cup racer ones and the 406's will fit as they are the correct items. GOD only knows now which ones are the correct ones haha! I'll keep you posted and hopefully will take some pics of the fitment process
yet another question: wouldn't it be less hassle to use the old pads as a guide to file down the DS's? as a template I mean, coupled with the removal of the shims?
by vertically you mean like this? (with the red lines pointing the areas to file)
or like that:
just received the Brembo hc +ds 2500 kit from k-tec and wanted to be sure before install
50£ per hour? OMFG what a difference, around here (outside uk before you ask..) you'll never find any garage above the 20£/hour mark, even renault
regarding your problem maybe it's best to have a second hand box and a buddy to get the job done. 400 ? jesus..
looked under the car and if I had lost about a liter it would be visible somehow. talked to a guy an hour ago which went from elf to motul in his 197 and he said that the first time the car consumed oil, but the next oil change it came back to normal. maybe it's because the new oil mixed with...
yeah I stopped and gave it a thought relax ;) and this morning checked the stick and the oil was close to minimal. I was just thinkin' that's not the case last night, since the car NEVER drank any oil before between oil changes, I was using elf 5w 40 every 10 000 km (~6k miles) but since the...
8000 km ago I had my last service and decided to move on from the elf 5w 40 to motul 300v power. problem is, last night I left the car for 5 mins standing tilted to the right near some ditch, and when got back in and ignition on, the "service" light was on and the "oil------" indicator on the...