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So, from what you've said, it's either gonna be a blocked injector or coils or leads? Flow test might give us more evidence to a blockage but if not, it's the other two?

For science sake, I'll be testing the injector flow tonight. I'm resentful to be throwing a bunch of parts at my car when, once isolated, I can just change 1 part and then use the other money for other upgrades or fixes

Yeah that's a fair comment. Mine tends to throw its code about 10 seconds in which made me think more that it was a blockage or the injector is dead altogether. I guess we will see when I do the crank test!

Well that could be our entire issue here. Fault injector initially and the dirty spark plug could still be causing a misfire. New plugs on the way so I'll give that a switch when they arrive too!

That was my thinking. I haven't researched those specific ht leads but why change from the oem ones? Just says to me that someones trying to cut corners

I've checked the resistance against all the injectors and they're all showing between 14 and 15 ohms so no issue there. My only thought if it was blocked?

When you say freeze frame data, what are you referring to? I have the usual cheapie obd scanner but that's all

The coil pack looks oem but the leads say 'Formula Power' on them and are red. Anyone know of these?

For sure. £28 is the best option. Leads and the coil pack are both at least £50. I'll give that a test and see how we go. If they all spray fine, we know it's one of the other two

Well. 2 posts saying very similar things at the same time. Creepy. I'll give that a shot to be honest. Sounds like a plan

So, just for clarification, I'm looking for an equal spray pattern. Should be a similar volume to the rest and not squirting..more spraying (pun intended). Is that right?

Anyone else? 😂. The general consensus is that its injectors then. Looks like I'll be ordering some!

I was quoted £58 per injector!

The issue is they're all used. I bought a rail with injectors about 6 months ago to try and cure this. Obviously it didnt work. My thinking is that it's not injector related. I changed all 4 6 months ago which didnt do a lot. The coil pack and leads haven't changed but again, that's process of...

You're not wrong 😂. Yes, I've got the ordering of things right. Luckily the leads were labelled which confirmed my googling!

Well that is a good point. Perhaps I'm wrong but judging by the state of 1 of the spark plugs, I assumed it to be cylinder 3. So that's the injector I changed.

Okay. Update. I swapped the injector for another one I had (used). Reassembled the inlet manifold etc etc. Started up fine. After idling for a bit, I checked the fault codes and it's still showing the fault code. Still feels like its misfiring too. Any other suggestions?

I agree that, if it is the injector, which all evidence suggests it is, cleaning it wont help. But. Cleaning the good ones sounds like a great idea!

I'll test that tomorrow and report back. Thanks guys. Was about to start throwing parts at it 😂

Well that's reassuring. I've got 8 injectors (4 off the car on a spare rail). Think its worth switching one or two around? Should I soak or clean them before trying?

Hi all, I know this topic has been covered again and again but I hope to cover this issue in a little more detail than the others....with your help! I've got the usual flashing engine management light at idle and now whilst driving. The main culprits are Injectors, Coil Pack or HT Leads...

Haha. I'll buy it for £5 and a packet of crisps. Believe me, the switch is the easiest thing you'll replace. Its located down by your dip stick / oil filter area. Unplug it from its sensor and then just screw the new one on. Done!

As I said above, the pump will let you know if it's on it's way out or low on fluid. They tend to scream in my experience. I would be ordering a new power switch before anything else. The switch I ordered was £28. Which is relatively small compared to a new pump I'd imagine!

That was my recommendation. Clios seem to eat them for breakfast!

It's probably fine. But, as always, if in doubt get someone to check it at a garage

IN that case, its either in your head lol or tyre pressure might be low?

As above, these cars have very little rear brake usage. Just stay with OEM (or whatever is cheapest tbh) as they contribute very little to the braking performance

This is another good point. On my old 182, I had 4 new tyres and then geo done and good lord it was night and day. I remember wondering what the hell they had done to make it so good! The new 182 is yet to be treated to such an experience...

When I used to run that set up, I think I used to ruin 34 psi in the front and 32 in the back to give it a little more stick in the corner. That being said, "best pressure" is the most subjective thing ever!!

Will do. Unlikely to be using it for a little while as my detailing spot is occupied! The reviews all seem to be good tbh, even outside of the EZ circle jerk