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Glad to hear it is hopefully sorted :)

Last 172 was a daily for 45k, then a toy. Williams is a toy - quite lucky I have other cars, I don't think Iv got the b****cks to use Duf every day - god knows what would happen lol

As Jay has said, the ph2 manifolds do not have the hole in for the idle control valve to bolt in to. Using the ph1 inlet on a ph2 engine will be fine. Course, remember the ph1 has the better cylinder head ;)

Id say it will still come back on after a while, but code readers to do that can be had off ebay for about £20 mate, iv got one and works fine for switching off lights and basic code reading

I doubt it's an air leak - only because if air is getting in after the throttle body in theory the idle should raise up - and it should still drive. Silly question, when did you last put fuel in - not a bad batch of fuel?

Yeah thats the long slippery slope we all fail to climb back up mate! :)

Yes tensioners would be covered under warranty mate. No real way of testing unless you unbolt it lol the ecu would self learn quite quickly, it can calibrate itself for any minor tweaks with no problems. It is an odd situation, with all the parts you replaced, could any have been faulty?

Agree, keep it as it is, looks much better

If you havent tried a map sensor mate then it is worth a try if you cant get it to a specialist - it could cause your issue, but alot of other things could and you could end up chasing your tail

No, belt slipped can cause other issues - nothing against who fitted it, it could have been an idler/tensioner that has failed and made the belt slightly slack. Didit just happen when you were driving or did you fire it up one morning and it couldnt drive? Could also be collapsed catalyst -...

The guy who parked up should have driven further down imo ( so cars coming round that corner at speed would have seen it and given time to react if required) and he should have jumped the barrier and ran up that way - walking the inside line of a corner which is super slippery on s live track is...

It wont have snapped and even if it had it is only a small bit of plastic on the end - dont worry mate. Bear in mind they are not megga tight - even when i fitted a new genuine one on mine i could wiggle it.

Yes the temp sensor not being tight could cause an air leak, but that would not make yours overfuel to the point of not being able to move mate. Your plugs leads will be on right if it revs clean - it wouldnt start if they were out of sequence. It could well be a number of things, but work...

If the end was snapped off inside the inlet it would have been sucked in the engine mate

No, thats not the map sensor mate, the small one that goes in the inlet on the battery side is the air intake temp sensor, the map sensor is on the other side of the inlet at the top - a bigger black one. I don't think this is your issue - it could be as anything is possible but I doubt it as...

He means the left hander before that one where everyone was spinning mate. The section leading to it is a right, small downhill straight, left, small straight, then that downhill right, straight, then uphill right. If i remember right lol

Totally agree, it scares me how many people drive it flat out (locals are fine as they know it, but the amount of English 'newbies' I spoke to last time chasing lap times just shocked me) I think people forget it is a super fast track and 99% of it has zero run off, even after however many laps...

Quite possible mate, iv not been out to the Ring in a few years so I can't comment on the grip levels. Though it seems very very slippery, even the cars taking a different line are slipping about - I would speculate some fluid was dropped either at the corner before or just before the corner...

This. Near every car was loosing grip, the track doesn't look wet so id say some fluid is down. (talking about the second vid btw)

Mmmmm Aston V12

Did great with the flip then fell at the last hurdle. Still, much better than I could do

Hi from one Russ to another lol. A good cheap spec is decent pads (ds2500 is the usual) brembo hc discs (see Gman on here), braided hoses, and spax shocks and springs work very very well oh and get a decent seat in it, the better driving position will make more of a difference than anything lol

Condition over mileage every time

Not really mate, as it normally needs to be under load. Bear in mind too that it's not ok if there is still grease in it, it would have had a while of dirt, grit etc washed in with the grease

To be honest id still say cv joint - it could be that arm cracking as the arm is moving due to the bush, but cv joints do tend to make noise when load is pushed on, on light throttle you probably won't hear it, but under load it will knock, or 'clack'

Will be good to see it done mate, just imagine it's like Guinness, it takes time to make perfection ;)

Bear in mind there are 3, the top one on the drivers side wears - you can help this by undooing the 4 big bolts around the mount and moving the engine forward - it will need a big shove as you are technically moving the weight on the engine, then just do the bolts back up once the mount has...

Re: Project Benga 16v 1.2 MK2 Will be the wiring under the seat mate, just double check what you have done, important thing is to make sure the wires are not tight, moving the seat forward and back on it's runners will tug on the wires causing them to wear/split

No problem mate, someone will be along soon who has more experience with autoddata than me and might be able to offer some advise, but I have heard AD does is not accurate with these. Does it drive ok? Normally it will be down on power if the timings out

Iv got it somewhere, when im back on my laptop later il try to find it