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Haven't we all agreed yet that one dyno result means nothing, unfortunately. And the same with results from two different dynos. One done before you did some modification(s), plus another one afterwards done on the same dyno, tells you what the modifications(s) achieved. And one done on one...

White wheels like that on a black car aren't very fashionable these days. But I'm not very fashionable. Its exactly what I'd like on my black 172.

Someone talked about putting the battery under the passenger seat. I recollect involved a lower-profile battery. Good or bad idea? I was thinking of chucking the CD stacker and replacing it with a bizzo I could plug an MP3 player into and doing it. Do you really want to move the battery all...

The starter motor uses less than 100A?

Sounds like your problem last week, the one that made you put a new battery in, wasn't that the old battery had carked it, it was just flat. And now the new one's flat too.

trying to get rid of the @#$%^&ing rattles in the dash but it'd be pointless, fix one lot and another lot would develop

Mk2 Ph2 172 with 15" wheels is ET 48.5 mm. 182 with 16" wheels is ET 45 mm. So 7J15ET43 wheels would fit nicely on either of those.

Its there to do two things. To cut noise and to improve low end torque. If you want more noise and you don't care about losing a bit of low end torque, great, remove it. At full throttle its fully open, so there can't be any power improvement by simply removing it. Not unless it was broken or...

The engine can take a turbo. But the gearbox is marginal. And, no, there is no obvious better gearbox. So if you fit a turbo you've got to treat the gearbox gently, or replace it regularly.

I'd suggest that that was true, but may not be now. The point at which you get maximum braking is just before you get lockup. Lockup pretty much almost occurs at the rear. So if you have more rear grip you don't just get better braking at the rear you get better braking at the front as well...

Increasing the stroke will make the car more torquey at the bottom end - it'll get to a slightly maximum torque and maximum power at slightly lower revs - but may require reducing the maximum revs for an engine that's already as long-stroke as the Renault. With with increasing the bore its a...

Used to have a Honda Civic I used for club racing and driving around the street. But under the bonnet it was very non-standard. The only rev limiter was the conrods. You knew you'd revved too far when one went out through the side of the block. Whenever anyone looked under the bonnet the...

Big enough.

You all forgot to tell him about the vacuum line that goes to the acoustic valve. If you remove the line you've got to plug it so it doesn't leak air.

Going from Windows to a Mac? Its sort of like going from a Ford to a Renault. You feel good that its more exclusive and more stylish, not something everyone else's got, but underneath the technology's exactly the same, so it doesn't do the job any better, in fact Ford's suspensions and...

The answer is that with a turbo it'll probably run out to whatever the rev limiter is set to, if you've got one. So find out what that is, adjust the standard car's mph/1000 rpm if you've fitted different tyres, and multiply. If for example your rev limiter is set to at least 7250 rpm and...

Probably depends on the model, but in my car's ECU its a surface mount chip. Which makes it a bit more difficult than popping out the old EPROM and popping in a new one.

A 172 Cup is, I understand, about 60 kg lighter than an FF. That should allow it to do about a 0.2-0.25 second better time for the quarter mile. Most of the magazines said the 172 did around 15.3, so Cups should do 15.0-15.1. Of course some people in some circumstances on some tracks will do...

I would be very very very surprised if BulletXP was a legal product. It is after all just a stripped down version of Windows XP. Which you have to buy.

Someone recently started a thread saying they'd had their 197 dynoed on a chassis dyno that bolted to the hubs rather than having the wheels drive a roller. I got a little annoyed that the dyno operator had told the person that the 158.5 bhp the car had gotten on that type of dyno equated to...

Its a lucky dip. They are barely strong enough for a standard engine. And there isn't any better gearbox that bolts in easily.

I've actually tested vortex generators on a Clio Sport. They don't work. The company selling them guaranteed that they worked on all body types. But their own explanation of HOW they worked gave me doubts, so I got the guarantee in writing, bought the product, tested them, found they didn't...

Two cold air feeds would be any advantage over one in terms of supplying cold air to the engine. But if you put your air feed facing forward at the front it also acts a ram air feed. And the bigger the area in the airflow the more air is forced into the engine. So you might get a small power...

The normally accepted figure for a FWD car for "transmission" losses, ie getting the power from the flywhhel to the road, is 15%. Including losses in the tyres. Bolting the chassis dyno up to the hubs rather than transmitting the power through the tyres to a roller should produce a HIGHER...

Should be just over 15.

That's "hygroscopic". An affinity for absorbing water from the air. A hydropscope is a device for viewing things under water. "Hydroscopic" would be adjective of that. If there was one. But there isn't. Im sure edde knows what he means LOL

The laws of physics suggest the opposite is the case. That because the gap between first and second gears is very wide on the Clio Sport you need to hold first to just before the rev limiter cuts in or when you go into second your revs will be too low. There might be a reason that's not the...

The clutch is slipping at lower revs. Remember this is a diesel. Then as the revs rise and it gets past the torque peak the clutch stops slipping and the revs fall.

Should I buy A or B? If you don't know enough to know whether A or B was best, by definition you'll never know if you bought the wrong one. Psychologists tell us there are two sorts of people. There are the people who put huge effort into getting every decision right, and worry endlessly...

GPSs should be within plus or minus one (mph or km/h) if you are driving at a steady speed. They will give a lagging reading - low if you are acceleratying, high if you are braking - if your are changing speed because they give you the average speed over the last second not the current speed...