Search results

I find Gliptone better on really proper leather not the stuff Renault have used which is a very thin bit of leather bonded to some plastic. Most of the seats such as the backs and sides of the front seats are just vinyl anyway Gliptone and Autoglym tend to leave a finish of there own to the...

I use a mixture of the two, circular motions when first starting to work it and finishing in front and back toward the end.

Flat stanley blade (not on rear screen) and some Tar and Adhesive remover will cleaner up the left overs.

What in Inferno Blueboy ?

Personally I would have done the same on the stickers - good call letting it cure properly first. Those centre caps not matching bugs me everytime you post picture - lazy slack french.

The valetors favourite, meat to work well, I have never braved it ! I take no responsibility ! lol

Things keep moving on, I was happy with the Sonus Drying Towels till I got a the Miracle Dryer

lol @ whizz about a bit! You will soon get used to how many passes you need at what speeds and how much pressure to use, time taken per panel and the correct amount of polish. I wish it was as easy as Pepsi says. You have the worst colour to perfect once you have mastered black other colours...

lol I thought that too :o

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/-00-wire-wool/prod_377.html

A bit of fine wire wool and some more metal polish and thos pipes will come up even shiner only got some half done ones of mine

No because the EGP won't bond to it, needs a clean oil free surface which is why it is ideal over the top of SRP, applied over a glaze and you will be wasting your time.

For a deeper looking shine on Dark colours I would look into a decent wax rather than a sealant. I would stick the sealant down as a base and then add the final looks through the wax. As Riz says it is all in the prop 90% of the cars overall look - the main bulk of depth and gloss are created...

Yes, in theory it should not remove any of the EGP but there is no real way of telling.

The CG is is ok (have a couple of bottles) but the Duragloss is a notch above.

A glaze will give a better look due to all the oils in it. As Craig says as long as you use a pure one such as Megs #7 you can follow the sealant with it.

;) lol - I thought that !

The Menzerna Polishing Pads I find awesome, my go to polishing pad, not used the compounding pad though. Maybe worth dropping an email to Tim to see if he can do a kit with SFX pads and Menzerna Polishes.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polishing-machine/meguiars-g220-complete-menzerna-kit/prod_414.html G220 with the Menzerna's

Personally I would get the one with SFX pads as recommended and get a bottle of Menzerna Intensive Polish and some Menzerna Final Finish.

10 teams points to Mr Scutch !

I remember the Black Gold pics, made me buy mine - who says Scutchio is useless !

I wish I could ! lol

The AJT is spray, wipe and buff without needing to let it dry. The Vics I apply it to a couple of panels and then remove.

The sealant is so quick and easy to use, produces great results and durability no paint faffing around with EGP if you have the AJT The Vics Concours is an excellent looking wax and nothing comes close to it for the money, much better than the Dodo Juice stuff that cost more than it.

If you are open to a bit of mail order personally on Flame Red I would use. Polish - Autoglym Super Resin Polish Seal - Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger (2 or 3 coats) Wax - Victoria Wax Concours Wax

EGP will easily last the Dodo's - I tend to top EGP with a Wax after just for looks.

Polish with Autoglym Super Resin Seal with Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection Will look great for a very reasonable amount of cash.

SRP works lovely by machine, cleans up the paint nicely for a wax or sealant while leaving some protection behind and nice finish. Ideally you should add something over it for proper durability.

Once you have hit it with a few coats of SRP once it has cured it will look even better!