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The only ones I found were marine mooring cleats or something - did not look up to the job of holding a harness in a crash. Get your drill out and get a plate from demon tweeks or similar to put underneath and screw into.

I don't think you can turn them off in that way. There is nothing about it in my manual and I tried doing the ignition thing like you do with the lights but it didn't affect the wipers. I'm sure I've read on here of people switching to the ph1 stalks to get rid of auto wipers? Or something like...

Hi I was thinking I'd like to brush up on my tuning knowledge, it's been years since I've read any theory stuff and no doubt things have moved on a fair bit since. I'm interested in N/A engine tuning theory, or the practical application of, any way. I have a scientific educational background...

It is fairly straight forward, just undo every thing and it pulls out.

Bolt in cages and removable door bars are fine as long as the fixings comply with bluebook/FIA. Bolt in cages still need to have plates welded to the chassis under the feet. I've got an OMP one (AB/105P/220H), it is fine - they have updated them recently to comply with new regs and they are now...

You'd think with all the effort cat must have put in to develop the cams they'd have over laid power/torque curves of their different cams to give you an idea of the differences between them and stock.

The rubber on the piston in the pump swells over time. Does your rear wash wipe work as it is the same pump just running in reverse. If does it's probably a blockage, if it doesn't probably the rubber in the pump. I took a very thin slice off the rubber on both sides of the piston in mine and...

This thread reckons you can skim 1mm off the head. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?195585-Compression-12-6-1/

Have a look through some of the project threads, plenty of people fitting harnesses in there. I just drilled a hole in the floor and bolted the eye let to one of these - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/harness-eye-bolts-plates/willans-stress-plate.

Check the guides section there are some instructions in there for tips to stop the dripping if that is the problem.

There are some pdfs floating about, PM me your e-mail if you'd like me to send you what I've got.

I'd just change the thermostat to start with, that fixed a similar problem on mine. Should limit at 7200 when warm.

Exhaust is flush inlet is pushed in a bit isn't it?

Some break 190 with that spec and a custom map.

The point is you don't really know whether your winter tyres are really worthwhile or not. You just think you know. You don't have any evidence other than winter tyres work better in cold temps, standing water, snow etc. You don't know whether you encounter enough of those conditions to make...

It is more complicated than that though. You would need to look at temperatures during rush hour (or whenever most driving is done) rather than over the whole day. You would also probably want to look at the modal average rather than the mean.

Them being safer doesn't necessarily mean there are less accidents or serious injuries. With things like this you can get weird effects statistically like people don't slow down as much in bad whether because they know have winter tyres. Is it really wet and/or less than 7 degrees often enough...

Can't be far off?

All that looks at is that winter tyres are better in the right conditions. It doesn't look at whether those conditions are dominant for long enough in the UK for it to be worthwhile or whether they lead to a significant reduction in accidents.

I'm talking about not whether the tyres are better in the right conditions but whether those conditions are present for long enough in this country to make it worthwhile. Tyre manufacturers make tyres to make money, not because they want to save the world. There is a lot of hype about winter...

It would be interesting to see some real independent scientific research showing whether they're worth while or not for UK conditions. Personally I doubt it is cold enough for long enough for them to be worth it statistically, especially in the South.

Wouldn't fit surely?

There are lots of options. I think the simplest is the omex running the engine and the std ecu still in running everything else.

The Bosch ones last much better. Even the right hand drive Clios II have left hand drive wipers - with the funny mechanism in the middle it gets enough of the screen so they don't need to change them over.

The reluctor (?) ring that surrounds the barrel senses the chip in your key and deactivates the imobiliser. You would need to find a way around that... The key needs to be near the ring.

The 4 terminals at the bottom are to cut power from the alternator. For motor sport the cut off switch has to cut the engine as well, just cutting the battery won't stop the engine if it is running. If you just want something to stop the battery going flat a 2 terminal one would be fine. I...

Does the radio work? I think they're on the same circuit. If you look at the fuse positions on the back of the cover it is the one that looks like the radio 15A. At least when I pulled that fuse my lighter stopped working.

Yes

I've got this cage and the reason it goes in with the rear feet above the springs is because it is the only place in the boot floor with any strength. But like you said, I'm glad I have ASTs.

I don't think you need a bender as long as you don't attempt anything too tight. I didn't need to use one after receiving my brake lines coiled up from the motor factors.