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When you disconnect the fuel line from the rail you'll get a very small amount of fuel leak out. Nothing to worry about as long as you're not smoking at the time. I didn't bother trying to catch it or anything.

I just used a hammer, no press, no burning.

Vibrations do settle down to pretty much normal after a few 1000 miles.

Jesus, give the guy a break! He's only asking for some suggestions.

Changing it back for the MoT on a 172 is a pain.

This one? http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=f4r&aq=f What happened to that guy in the project section who was going for "big power", Nodded was it. Not seen anything in his thread for a long time.

Try 90 see if it goes away. Probably the strip around the windscreen, quite common. Mine only does it at 90+ in a cross wind ;-)

Re: 182 master cylinder size and is it a likely cause? A nice story for you to all re Have you checked the sliders on the front calipers are not seized. Also make sure the pads are free to move in the caliper and not jammed. If it was master cylinder I would have thought you'd have no brakes...

Search for Russ_16v's project thread. It's to do with the sensors the std ECU uses not really being ideal for ITBs. Plus if it's a ph2 you'll need to convert to cable throttle - although I have seen a butchered DBW TB motor being used to open teh ITB butterflys.

Do people just use standard nuts?

The whole rear beam flexes when cornering. The ARB reduces the flex.

Sounds like you need the manual - PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it you. Most of the ones you've listed are a sequence of tightening.

What wrong with an Eezibleeder I used mine this evening worked fine.

Think they're about 25-30 mm from memory. I had mine spring a leak due to corrosion.

That is exactly what I got from Renault for about 2x the price.

You can get the proper kit from renault. But I'd say the split pin would be fine, possibly even better than the proper kit.

You need to try it. Some of them are transferable.

How would they test it assembled?

Doubt you'd get 4k. You'd be better returning to standard as much as poss and selling off the forum. Getting the warning lights off would be helpful, resistors should do the air bag. ESP could be pricey though, I know Renault charged the guy I bought mine off 400 to fit a new steering sensor...

The renault manual has all the torque settings required. A renault mech I know says he would do as the manual says and only use the horse shoe tool if not removing dephaser or exhaust pulley. But on here you'll get flamed for that. Loosening all the pulleys is the most accurate way to do it...

It's not just about peak power it about whether the torque at the wheels. On a 1*2 you get faster acceleration in the lower gear all the way to the limiter.

Have you even read the OP's post?

Your insurance is not invalid without an MoT. You would at the very least have the legal minimum of 3rd party cover.

The wires from the original horn are probably knocking about loose under the cap in the centre of the wheel. Stick some insulation tape around them.

If you've researched it before you start i.e. read the manual, then it is fairly straight forward - just different to your typical cam belt with keyed pulleys. My guess is that most people who don't know different undo the crank pulley see no key, sh*t themselves and then just try and bodge it...

I need some 40x2mm CDS roll cage tubing. I've tried my local metal fabricators but they didn't even seem to know what it was... I can get it on ebay for 18 quid + 6.50 p+p for 1.5m, but seems a bit pricey and I need 2m lol. I am missing something or is it really that much of a specialist item?

Did you see the borrowed tools? Getting it a "tooth out" is not really possible with the tools. Only without them... I'd give him a copy of the manual, I can send it you if you PM me your e-mail address.

Seam sealer sounds like the stuff I mean, thanks. It is for inside BTW and I want to paint normal car paint over it afterwards.

Hi I've done some welding on the clio and I'd like to seal them up like they were when they came out of the factory. What do people use? Thanks Mark

Car is stripped inside. I've just removed all the heat sheilds to do some jobs and I was wondering if I need them at all? The one over the back box is disintegrating anyway. Has anyone run without them? These are the three under the car that run from the handbrake back, not the one in the...