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Megs ultimate should shift that, try a more agressive pad. I found Renault paint to be solid as hell on my Monaco, needed to be quite agressive to make a difference

If you can get them in easy enough, but I wouldn't waste too much time on it as a spanner fits in there anyway

Same happened to me, I just bought some high tensile nylock nut and bolts from Screwfix for the fronts. Rears were big ass nuts and bolts, threads didn't get damaged

I rattle can loads of things and they always come out nice, but on something the size of a spoiler it think it would be difficult to get consistent coverage on each layer, but if you've got the paint then give it a shot, worse case you've wasted a tenner, rub it down and send it to a pro

I bought a brand new cat2u cat for 100 quid for my 172 and it never failed the emissions test. Why did Renault feel the need to put so much precious metals inside of it could have been done alot cheaper?

If it's only ever blown warm air then the compressor probably never did kick in as like you say, if the pressure is low it won't turn on the compressor.

A decent ofc 4awg cable would do the job with some ring terminals on.

If Renault still have it available I'd just get that, failing that autodoc will probably have various options

Is that the one on eBay for 1400 quid? I saw that, was going to buy it but I'm glad you've seen this rust, looks gone that, be a right money pit if you want it right.

It's impossible mate unless you've had a lot of practise. Unless it's one you can get behind and tap out with a rubber mallet I wouldnt even bother trying it. The cheap glue puller ones are useless as well. The suction cups aren't too bad for getting out big dents but will still need...

Nice hows the sills holding up?

That's completely different to your original post lol. A ktec system is way louder than the stock system. Depending on which system you have ktec sell centre silencers to fit most of them, I did this on my previous 172 system which was straight through to the backbox and it took loads of noise...

Standard exhaust is pretty much silent. It must be the itbs or a cheap OEM exhaust causing you the bother.

Sportlines are fine, I ran them on both my clios, good drop over standard and with cup shocks handle great Prolines don't really offer a noticeable drop on sports, but apparently handle better

It needs to be lowered quite a lot to get through the gap. I took the bolts out completely on the box side, and lowered the driver's side about an inch and left the bolts in, this gave just enough room to get the box out

172 cup used a longer single piece driveshaft on the driver's side I believe, and it would fit a normal 172 or 182. The support bracket and bearing was used on cars with a 2 piece shaft

On a track car maybe, not for the road. Box swap is easy enough if your good with the tools, took me a couple of days on my back with axel stands on my own. Subframe bolts were the biggest pain in the arse for me, the clips holding the nuts inside will snap lol.

Pain in the arse diagnosing the driveshaft, I had a clicking sound on my civic fn2, upon inspection with the car in the air the driveshaft appeared fine. It was only when i took the shaft out the hub I could feel how knackered the joint was. Replaced just the joint with a joint from shaftec...

Release bearing sounds will change when the clutch is pressed but it would also do it when stationary. You problem seems to be related to movement so my thoughts were driveshafts as they will be under load when the clutch is up and the car is driving.

Doesn't sound like a release bearing to me. Both driveshafts ok?

Maybe not exact but it's active between around 2000rpm and 6500rpm

Fair enough lol. PM me if you want it

I've got one, not sure which side it is?

What car is it? My 172 never had a cover over the aux belt, nor did the 182 I had.

Says 24 hours on the website

It must be a really poor fitting tool then because regardless of the bolt hole, if one half moon is facing up and the other one facing down then surely it's physically impossible to get a straight tool to sit between them.

I was just thinking that, surely it'd only go in if they were both upside down?

Surely putting a protective section on will make it worse as that bit will be even lower, causing more pressure to be put on the exhaust when it hits and stressing other bits like the manifold. My ktec stealth system used adjustable clamps on the centre section mounts rather than welded on...

When pinning the crank it's very easy to get the pin in a balancing cut out rather than the actual crank setting hole. Depends how how out it is, group n timing could be considered out but they still run