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Or just lower the subframe on a jack?
Loosen passenger side bolts until theres not much thread left, then remove driver's side completely and just hold the subframe on a jack while you do the work.
No need for any special rods
Bent stub axel or rear beam.
You can get shims to go behind the stub axel, but that's a pretty big difference, I would have thought it would be quite obviously bent
Did this last week.
No idea why you would remove the exhaust and manifold. Leave well alone.
Rack, don't even need to touch those 4 bolts, just remove the pinch bolt holding the steering rack to the column, but do not move the steering wheel once removed as itl mess with the steering angle...
Hey guys.
The sound deadening under my bonnet is falling to bits.
Do bog standard mk2 clios have this or is it only on 182 and 172s?
If a normal mk2 has it then there's a good chance I'll be able to get one cheap from a scrappy.
I went in for a free allignment check after fitting my new shocks just so I could get a hunter printout, it was literally about 1 minute away from perfect but apparently it would scrub my tyres away in no time if I didn't pay the 50 quid for them to adjust it lol
If it's anything like the rears then it ain't coming out without destroying it.
I had to drill mine out and then chisel then outer metal casing out.
Never tackled a front one though
Yep. Resistor pack under the driver's windscreen wiper knackered.
Easy fix, I ordered a new transistor from rs components, it was about 3 quid and soldered it in.
Or I think you can buy the resistor pack cheap enough these days anyway.
If you want the 182 twin exit exhaust you will need to buy the ktec 182 look exhaust designed for the 172.
Or do as Paul said and chop the spare wheel well out
Hi guys. I've just ordered this, there's 1 left. I messaged the company asking if it was brand new sealed and they confirmed.
It matches the Renault part number for a 182 or 172 cambelt kit and seemed too good to be true.
If anybody knows a reason why I should cancel the order let me know...
Surely if the lower inlet is spaced 5mm further out then the bolt holes at the rear of the upper inlet and the breather on top of the rocker cover won't line up?
Did you have the wheels aiming forward when you did it to replicate what the sensor is telling the ECU?
The first few times I attempted it, the abs light stayed on after putting it all back together.
Final attempt which worked, all I did differently was I did it with the battery already...
I'm in the exact same boat. Contemplating doing it myself but even parts and locking tools will cost me the best part of 300 notes.
Part of me is thinking just drive it till it dies, but then I think why not do the work and it's done then. I'll not get another decent car with 300 quid so why...