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You can cable tie the bias valve up to the chassis so you get max effort to the rear instead of the normal minimum effort. This is what I do for my MoT these days. They could do this just to prove there is nothing wrong with the brakes. I loop a couple of cable ties joined together through the...

Lock the crank with the pin, remove the plugs and insert the cam locking tool. Then check the marks on the tensioner line up - you need to remove the top cover of the cam belt to do the latter.

Random thread lol but I'm happy to pitch in. I have a few others: 172 Cup 182 Brakes/Suspension ABS Owners Manual Gearbox A few other bits and bobs. Anyone feel free to PM me your e-mail for copies.

JMS are in West Drayton near Heathrow.

My 172 cup (Oct 02) doesn't have RS inlets. 172 cup on the left. My 182 on the right lower inlet to head.

Should be fine. Most likely thing to go wrong is the disc retaining screw will not budge and you round it off. It is easy to drill the head off though and you don't need to replace it as they are only there to hold the disc in place when the wheel bolts are off.

17 and 13mm spanners for the front calipers and just hammer, pliers and screwdriver for the rears. Plus for the front, drill and bits when the disc retaining screws won't budge and lump hammer to remove seized discs from hubs. Rears, are you getting discs with the bearings pressed in already...

Hollywood tyres FTW ;-)

Getting the bottle out is much easier than it looks. Wipers off and the mechanism comes off with 2 bolts IIRC.

I thought the steering wheel could only go on in one position for the ESP? I.e. the column has a key so you can't move the wheel, never had mine off though. If your wheel isn't straight after tracking corrected it is most likely due to something being bent.

Up is more brakes and it is up at rest. It moves down when you press the brake to take some of the pressure from the rears. If you hold it up e.g. with cable ties. It can't move to take pressure from the rears so you get max effort.

Do fog lights make it go faster or slower? And is that front or both?

I''m 37, it is garaged, second car, 3k miles limited, full NCB, clean license.

Have you felt the centre of the rad when it's over heating, all the way down? If the rad was blocked you'd expect some bits to still be cold compared to the sides of the rad.

I've been trying to get one. Non of the local motor factors have the right one. The have one that is supposed to be for the 182 but the water intake comes out of the bottom whereas mine comes out of the side. Renault want 50 a pump! I was thinking of trying citreon and peugeot to see if they...

Last year I paid £180 insurance on the 172 cup for the year, £15/month lol!

De-cat will be louder and more power but it's a pain to change on a 172.

I have the renault manual, PM me your e-mail and I'll send it over.

Not sure how much the sump fell out while I was lowering it... 2-4 inches maybe. I undid everything but I probably didn't need to, I was planning on doing the clutch while I was there but decided to delay that job in the end. By everything I mean - lower gearbox mount, steering column pinch...

You can't get 205/45R16 R888s? I ran 195/50R16 A048 and they were fine, lowered about 40mm. I had to remove the arch liners IIRC.

That's correct behaviour, the more it moves down the less effort. When you press the brake a little piston pushes the compensator lever down. The spring if fitted resists this so the tighter the spring i.e. the lower the suspension due to weight, the more effort to the rear. With no spring you...

I tied it shut, up towards the car. The more it moves down the less effort to the rear.

You can turn mine but only just, not with ease. I cable tie my valve up for the MoT to avoid the usual low rear effort problems and the hassle of explaining that's the way it's supposed to be... With it cable tied up I once locked up the rears under braking so I wouldn't advise it long term...

I used a 10mm ring spanner, didn't even need a swan neck.

The strip around the windscreen also causes whistles at speed.

Just remove the pipe going from the air box to the acoustic value if you want a bit of noise.

Can you get cams for the 172/182 that don't push power up the rev range, I don't know any. Do you know some that will regularly get you high 190s on std inlet? Again I don't know of any.

JMS manifold will cost about the same all in, fitted etc and will get you better gains and probably significantly better gains in low/mid range torque aka driveability. Cams tend to move everything up the rev range.

I dropped the subframe a bit, I couldn't jack the engine high enough. Felt like I was going to break something. It's E8 just checked. I had to buy a 1/4" one as my 3/8" was too big for some of the recessed bolts.

I phoned ktec to ask which way around the bush goes and they said big up. Although the guy didn't know and just took a look at one on a car in the workshop. Mines been big up for a year plus.