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Do I have to remove the bottle? I have the scuttle panel and wipers off but can't see how to get the motors out. Getting the bottle out looks like I'll have to remove the wiper mechanism as well. Thanks Mark

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd Finally got it all back together tonight and took her for a spin after doing the ARP bolts and big ends. All seems fine. I tried to take it easy but it was difficult :-) Don't think I went of 6500rpm, is that taking it easy? Do big end bearings...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?455505-DJRoberts-DannyR-Ph1-172-Supercharged-Fast-Road-Track-****

I think he means subframe lowered or removed. When I lowered my subframe I thought the same but I couldn't persuade the heat shield and PS pipes to come away easily so I opted to just lower it. If you're removing the box you'll need to support the engine either way. I'd suggest using an...

Are they even different? I vaguely remember measuring mine once and seem t recall they were the same.

Halfords professional stuff is pretty good for the home mechanic. Loads of tool web sites, I use www.tooled-up.com mostly. Always had good service.

Well if it runs as before i.e. you can't tell the difference it's probably OK. You could get it checked for piece of mind.

Friction! Hence if you don't get the mating surfaces spotlessly clean they slip and ... Probably 2 reasons why they're fully floating: 1. The french like to be different. 2. You can get the cam timing more accurately set than you would with woodruff keys and mass production.

If it was out "a tooth" I doubt he has used the tools as that can't really happen if the cams are locked in position. I'd guess he marked the pulleys and then tried to line them back up but missed, that way you can easily get a tooth out. Glad it's sorted, fingers crossed it stays that way.

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd Front ARB poly bushes fitted. That was fun! Glad I had the sub-frame slightly lowered from doing the ARP bolts. Switched the decat for a sports cat, again having the sub-frame lowered made it a 1 man job. Still a b*****d though lol.

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd Got the ARP con rod bolts fitted along with some new big end shells. Old bearings and journals look pretty good considering they've completed 135k miles.

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd shiftspark what category under S10.10 do you compete under? J5.1 and S10.10 para 2 kind on contradict each other. Not fitted the RS2 yet. I'll probably run in the new big end shells first, not sure how much they need running in though.

You should be able to tell if he used the cam locking tool (the horse shoe one) by whether there are new seals at the ends of the cams on the gearbox side of the engine. Can see them without removing anything.

That's 500ml in 600 miles. I'd say a bit high, probably within Renault spec though. My 182 uses about 1 litre in 2500 miles and has done 60k miles my 172 uses 1 litre in 12k miles and has done 135k miles. That's with a lot of high reving motorway miles.

Take it back. I wouldn't run the engine until the garage have seen it. Unless they find something obvious you have to insist they re-check the timing, which takes about an hour and you'll need new cam blanking seals. Have they done them on the clio sport before?

I agree if you're handy with spanners you shouldn't be put off and there is a general attitude on here that you shouldn't touch it unless you're a specialist. I guess danny has seen it end in disaster so many times... I've done it with and without the tools and it is a lot easier to get right...

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd I've only done 1 sprint so far and they didn't seem worried about the suspension changes when I mentioned them. I've read the regs you're referring too though so it is a worry. I got the ASTs before I planned to do sprinting. I guess it depends on...

Re: 172 cup sprint/track car - soon to be RS2'd I got into a few group buys and made some for sale section/ebay purchases. Some DS2500 pads. Braided hoses. AST coilovers, stiff setup. Jam sport matched inlets. Cat cam 428s. Decat. Part worn 195/50R16 Yokohama A048s, plus spare set of turinis...

I picked this up today from JMS. I've been thinking about a project thread for ages so here goes. It'll take a while to get to the new manifold so bear with me... I bought my 172 cup in June 2004, 18 months old 23k miles. Around when I bought it. My old 205 GTI in the background. It was...

3-in-1 If you can't get that try this Silkolene Pro S 5W40.

His insurance will give him 3700 for it, then it is theirs. He can buy it back from them for 1k. Obviously in reality they'll just give him 2700 quid. If the front end is intact - front bumper is worth 2-300. Bonnet, Xenons a good bit, splitter? Rear bumper 1-200. It just takes time to off...

You can get a 16mm swan neck in both the front ones and an 18mm in one of the rear. The rear on the near side has very poor access, but you might get something in there. Top tip, too late for you, use an impact wrench, less force on the clips that way.

AFAIK Renault regard procedure 2 in their manual as good enough - so they probably wouldn't have undone the cam pulleys and set the belt tension with all the pulleys loose. Procedure 1 is more accurate, but a Renault dealer mechanic I know has never done procedure 1 just for a belt change.

You can check if Renault got it right by just putting the timing tool in and crank locking pin. I'm a self taught hobby mechanic. I've changed the belts on my 172 and 182 3 times in total and they've done over 100k miles between them since being done. If you follow the instructions, understand...

The generic ones for 35 quid only read generic fault codes - they are well worth it. The codes can be quite specific and are normally enough to tell you what is the problem. The Renault "Clip" at 3k does all the Renault specific stuff like disabling air bags, etc.

Is your tyre still round? I got this on mine and the rear tyre had flat spotted, you could feel it by running your had over the surface.

I recently noticed mine has the same, almost like oil is leaking and dirt is sticking to it but there is no oil around there.

What spring ratings did the cup racers run on?

Dephaser pulley seal is one of the cam shaft seals isn't it? Unless oil was leaking from the dephaser itself?

I stand corrected!