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Ive been costing it up recently as mine are due in June.
Timing tools are 145. Most guys seem to want around 300 Labour plus parts. So doing it yourself you are only really going to save 155.
I suppose if doing it yourself you can always sell the tools on afterwards, or keep them for when you...
I think your the reason I bought them and didn't get genuine actually, I remember you mentioning that before.
But there's plenty of people on here saying they are crap! Probz due to incorrect torque settings.
I got the mintex ones off eBay, 59.99 delivered with new bearings, and rings and pads.
Can't fault em so far, apparently the bearings wear prematurely with track use but for road I think theyl be fine
I got a pagid one from euros not long back. It was around 90 quid after the rebate on returning the old caliper.
Fits fine. Can't comment on the longetivity of it as its only been on 6 months
I had a 1.2 phase 1 RN as my first car in a nice dark green.
Only mods I ever bothered with were a set of alloys and a K N 57i intake and about 4 grands worth of audio, complete waste of money.
It did the job though.
Assuming your 17/18 Your insurance will be mega, modding isn't going to...
No idea why they get heavier but the same happens in a 172.
Old clutches are heavy as hell, put in a new one and it's so nice and light but doesn't take long to end up heavy again
Ah, looks good.
Have you ever had the car on a dyno since the mileage started to get on the high side?
Be interested to see what power these high milers make.
Not sure if a 200 is the same setup as a 172 but if it is just unbolt the shock off the rear axel and check it that way, it will soon become apparent if a seal has gone.
I'm not sure but it was fine in your before reading and then in the after reading it's way off.
Have your coilovers got adjustable camber settings? They sometimes have a slight adjustment plate where the 2 bolts go through the hub.
Wow, what country are you in?
The aux belt kit in the UK is only £80. Maybe see if you can import one from the UK?
Take the alternator off and see if you can get a part number off it that should confirm if it's correct or not.
Why not just buy an aux kit and change the belt and tensioner?
You have the typical symptoms of a duff tensioner. There's not much else which could be causing it
They are attached to a little radiator type thing behind the panel.
Pure motorsport a.c. delete kit has a good guide on how to remove it.
I think you need to take off the wipers.
Or just leave it in place, no need to block them off as you have destroyed the a.c. anyway so they aren't going...
Jubilee is fine mate, used it loads of times. It goes above and below the 2 small torx bolts from your first pic, tighten up till the belt is free enough to remove and then remove the tensioner, it's got a large Allen headed bolt in the middle you will need to access and that torx bolt pictured...
The 75 amp will be for a 172 cup which don't have air con.
All the others including your 182 use the 110amp one.
It's the same part number as the one shown here on Renault parts direct, but Renault Wolverhampton on eBay are cheaper which is the link I sent you...
Get a genuine mate, I'm all for cheap parts but the 2 mentioned are terrible.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Renault-Clio-2-0-16V-182-172-Sport-Alternator-7711134267/271889562843?epid=652479106&hash=item3f4de17cdb:g:qUQAAOSwZd1VbuNX
Went through about 3 rtx ones in 12 months on my old astra. Tried a lucas, died 6 month later, absolute shite both of em.
Get a new refurbed one from Renault or one from a scrapper
Take the aux belt off and run the car and see if the whine goes. If it does it will be one of the pulleys on that belt run such as the alternator.
Murdering pulling away could be dodgy engine mounts.
Yet I know what you mean mate.
I did hear a rhumor that ktec had done something similar but that was a few months ago now.
I can't fault the triscan product though, quality felt way better than non genuine stuff I had in the past on other cars.