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Yeh i have a decat janspeed supersport so its too loud as it is, the open cone filter was just too much for me. ​Can have it for 15 quid + delivery if you want. Its just a metal elbow and a knn cone filter. I'll dig outout My old thread for a pic of it.

We See this way too often when mechanic mates and uncles do cam belts on these engines.

Mate there's so many threads about this. In reality the ph2 air box is really well designed and with a good panel filter will give good results. The ktec style ones seem to be proven to give about 2 bhp increase in power. I have been running a ktec style for the last year but I put my...

The boxes on these really are made from cheese aren't they. What mileage you on mate?

I'm guessing he's having a new engine because he said he won't have to pay any extra labour for the clutch change, with the engine out thr car a clutch change would only take about half an hour compared to a days job with the engine in the car

Bumper off Os wheel off Arch liner off Top bolt out of alternator and swing it forward Either a jubilee clip on the tension spring to relieve the pressure or a proper tool to put in the square below the tensioner and push tool forward. (I preference the jubilee clip so you have both hands...

If the engine is out deffinatly get a new clutch kit fitted. I got a brand new Valeo OE clutch kit from Maynard for 110. Itl save an absolute pig of a job when the clutch does pack in so yeh go for it!

I like to do mine every year but doing so has done me no favours as my gearbox still whines when rolling down a hill in gear with clutch up. Its deffo the box because I did clutch and bearing last week. Only on 85k too, shocking tbh, I can only assume that the previous owner ragged the tits...

Sorry I didn't realise it was just a back box you were fitting. Thought you wanted to replace the entire system without cutting the original one off

On my 182 when I took the original system off I couldnt remove the exhaust as the bend that goes over the Axel was catching on the Axel stopping me removing it. So if you drop the rear Axle down and disconnect the exhaust at the cat then you can remove the lot from cat back without cutting...

Bung the hole in the decat with a bolt and just unplug the sensor. Rear sensor does nothing anyway so its fine to unplug. I've been running like this for 3 years no issues and no dash light.

If you disconnect it at the cat and lower the rear Axel you can get the exhaust out without cutting it.

Brilliant result mate. Wait for the cheque to clear first though !

Even though you had been nowhere near the cambelt? That is crap

I've seen poly roll bar bushes for the 1.2, check out euro car parts as they are the main dealer. ​As for excessive engine movement I'd be inclined to buy a new set of OEM engine mounts

yes! it finally comes back to me! Thanks lads

cheers mate. ​anybody got any ideas on the smaller piece?

Mine drinks the stuff but the engine still runs perfectly and pulls like a train so it doesn't bother me. About 1 litre every 1500 miles. ​I believe Renault do state 1 litre per 1000 miles but this will be to avoid warranty claims I would have thought.

Found the bolt. Anybody know where the 2 plastic guards go? ​Had the wheels and bumper off but can't seem to see where the bloody things go

Looks like something from need for speed underground 2.

Could have put the belt on the crank wrong causing it to pull across, a well respected guy on here managed to get this wrong on mine. Causing the belt to be a tooth out on all the pulleys. Luckily I noticed it in time, bought a new belt and sorted it myself.

think so, i could only find the upper and lower box mount. Lower doesn't take much strain though so i cant see that ever been needing to be replaced.

yep. the engine will want to go back though, so pull towards you with one arm and tighten to nuts with the other.

New gearbox mount from gsf, pull engine forward and tighten up new mount. Sorted!! ​15 quid wel spent

I too have been considering it but most guys seem to reccomend OEM with a power flex dogbone

thats why i said ktec style ;)

dont quote me on it but i would have thought the best way to check it would be jack up the car and hold the shaft solid at the box end and see if you can rock the wheel forward and back. That way itl rule out and movement inside the gearbox

Ktec style doesnt because the cone is placed infront of the battery where the stock caf would go

ah right lol. a buggered driveshaft could cause knocking, have you checked if there is any excessive play in the shafts or grease around the cv boot that could indicate a duff joint?

ktec or homemade ktec seems to give noticable gains on the rollers. But in reality i think the only different you will notice is the induction roar from an open cone as apposed to a panel filter giving the impression your going faster Most other open cone kits loose you a few bhp