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already got the powerflex dogbone. i think i may get new mounts all round, its on 85k now and i believe they were last changed at 30k. i know my knocking is related to the mount though because when i went out earlier to try and rectify the issue its nowhere near as bad as it was before.

same. just had an idea, somebody tell me if this a load of rubbish like obviously the dogbone mount stops you pulling the engine forward when you loosen the engine mounts. So detach the dogbone mount first, loosen both box and engine mounts, pull engine forward, tighten engine mount top box...

Just done what I said, put it all back together and had a drive. Seems to have stopped the nocking a little bit. ​My mounts are probably shot

Hi mate . I changed my clutch the other day and the nocking is worse now! ​So I'm going out in a minute to loosen the box mount, pull the engine forward and tighten up. Will report back

If I do it again I'll probably find a way to get a socket on the rear subframe nuts and drop that. How people manage to drop the frame without the clips snapping is beyond me. I caked them in wd40 the night before and with half a turn of the bolt the clips were snapped lol ​Proper nackered my...

Me too. Only issue I found we as that the loom from the ecu to fuse box doesn't want to shift and runs right above the box so I just moved the box over enough to get to the clutch

Bump

just found 3 pieces that managed to not get put on now the car is back together. 2 of them look like mud guards i just cant remember where they came off from. but more worryingly there is a bolt that looks like its from the gearbox mounting but i have had a look and cant seem any missing bolts!!

Got it all finished now, thanks everybody who's contributed to my annoying threads . Clutch is so much lighter now and no more release bearing noise!

Ah right, thanks guys. Bit pointless for me then because I've got a home made ktec Lol.

Putting the car back together and can't work out what this is

Yeh I wish id done subframe method but I didn't for 2 reasons. First was that I could only see 2 of the bolts for the steering rack. Second, I attempted to remove the front subframe bolts and the clips holding the nuts snapped with the first turn of the spanner, while this isn't an issue on...

Managed to do it without actually removing the box, got it far enough away from the engine to get the clutch out and in. Managed to break a tie rod end on though, should be fun changing that,

When doing my gearbox I removed the ecu and all its bracketry. Now I can't for the life of me remember how it went back together. Its like a Chinese puzzle. This is what I'm left with

I'm following budgies guide to taking the box out the top. I've got out everything listed pretty much apat from the driveshafts which I'll do in the morning and the starter motor bolts. Where the hell are the 3 bolts holding the starter motor in place? I can't even see the dam thing...

What intake is that? Looks like a cheap version of an rs2. Sorry I can't answer your question though.

Looks great mate. I'm dreading the day I have to sell my rs when we get a house. Always loved the Rb, my only niggle with yours is that I think rb looks better with lighter coloured wheel like the non cup 182 wheels or turinis from a 172 cup

yeh really easy job. hardest part i found was pressing the old bushes out. I dont have a vice to press them so i just ended up burning them out after half an hour trying to bash em out with a hammer the new powerflex pushed in nice and easy.

I'd go for power flex mate, made no extra vibrations to my car and it just feels a tad stiffer. Just make sure you fit it right, some people put the smaller bush in the wrong way round which causes extra strain and vibrations

Just place it there and put the bolts in and tighten up. From memory it doesn't click in, just held in position by the bolts.

Does it do it when you rev it stationary in neutral?

The eBay link does say it comes with full fitting instructions.

No idea, I haven't got the box off yet Lol! Ah I see what your saying, so its just to help with centralising the plate and there probably won't already be one there because I'm on the original.

Not really no, I will change it soon but everything has all come at once this month and I cant afford 100 quid on another new tyre. Its not too deep, about 1mm or so, but I'm not sure how thick the side walls are.

What's the best tool to tap the bush into the flywheel with ? Or just rip out the old one and gently tap the new one into the flywheel with a rubber hammer?

Just been going over everything on the car ready for the mot on weds. And I just spotted this on the tyre, looks like I've hit a curb but I haven't so can only think it must be a pot hole or something in the road. Anooying this is I've only had them on for 1000 miles and pirelli zeros aren't...

My valeo clutch kit just arrived from Maynard. Question is it came with a bush that looks to press into the flywheel. It pictures a tool and a rubber hammer to nock it in. Is the tool in the picture the blue plastic shaft that came in the box or is that only to help align the disk?

Cool, I'll have a bash on Wednesday providing I get get booked in for mot early on Wednesday morning. big thanks to Maynard for getting me a clutch sorted for a great price delivered.

Cheers Danny, I'm ordering a clutch tomorrow anyway so I'll get it fitted next week hopefully. Only thing worrying me is the clips holding the subframe nuts in place snapping off and allowing the bolt to spin.

i used a small pair of plyers and managed to twist it.