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Re: Whats it worth (cringe title I know) no idea (you always lose the majority of what you spend on these builds) but, from what i've read of your constant tinkering and, seeing it like that, it looks a massive amount of fun! wouldn't a std Exige be boring in comparison, knowing you've built...

just pulls off - might need to twist it a little

that bracket with the buffers on it comes off, which might give you a better view of the mount itself:)

pretty impressive if it's real; must weigh a fair old bit

this isn't good reading! are the Michelins lasting any longer?

may be a local member might be able to have a look at it? sounds as though you've a bunch of probs there

it's because the bolt and the mount pass through the battery tray - the mount will be trapped in the tray - just need to disturb it and lift it off (try rocking the engine about if the hammer thing doesn't work) ed. that's an alternative reason^ i'd not thought about

just convert to metric and buy a clamp that has that metric measurement somewhere in the middle of its range of fitment:)

hi looking at renewing the fronts again; using the original spec ContiSport1s and they're seemingly not managing much more than 10k, which is becoming a bit of a pain guessing it's partly to do with the car's geometry, and partly Conti's softness. susp is std, it's all on road, and isn't...

Ben P has a guide: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=258911

is that through the damage inflicted by having run on a flat tyre? if you've renewed the tyre and valve every time, must be something to do with the rim, or a problem in the arch that the wheel's fitted to (snapped spring snagging the tyre, etc)

stripped threads is another possibility, although the two main bolts (in the arch) are rather large and it'd take some effort to strip the threads, or break the captive nut. given that you've just had the box changed, it seems poss. they've not put it back together properly just check these...

there are a few more things you'll need to be careful of - heater hoses, wiring, etc ed. brake lines

if the subframe's properly loose, it'll cause all sorts of problems, as all of the front end's mechanicals are bolted to it just have to hope it's loose mounting bolts as the alternative is (i'm guessing) captive nuts in the shell that are no longer captive (which would be bad)

'probably' the engine mounts; did it crunch into third as well? unless it's a bargain and you're prepared to find out the hard way, i'd leave that one be - loads about

i think it's solidly mounted to the car at six points - just identify the frame and have a look around it - two at the front, one in either arch (at the back), and the triangular plates at the back of the subframe underneath. check eveything's tight. if it is, i'd be worried! the rack's...

that sounds like a problem with the subframe mountings

have you been able to tell where the tyres have been damaged, or are they 'just' coming away from the rim? ed. presume new tyre and valve renewed each time?

problem with the rim or the axle it's fitted too?

they're missing the toothed collet that goes around the end of the hose and locates them into the brackets

lol. that looks well shonky

i think the rears are smaller. the safest way is either to buy genuine Renault nipples, or (bit messy), take the other one with you to a motor factor to be sure you get the right thread/length

aye, it's exactly the same shape as the OE metal gasket, just thicker ed. may be it's just more noticeable for being white

yep - sorry so the hoses are too big for the holes in the brackets? is that it? need a pic!:)

i've pinched that picture from Jonny1*2's guide (hope that's OK!) - what does yours look like? the lines pass through the brackets and are held to them by the spring clips. are the hoses too big for the bracket or the spring clips? personally, wouldn't secure brake lines with zip ties...

can you not just buy Renault clips and file them out so that they clear the lines?

they'll be forced to come up with something new that fits in, but 3yrs isn't really far at all (remember what we were using three years ago? yes, we're still using them!). on the face of it, this seems fairly interesting as tyres go

handy post from Tav - seems the thinking behind this is actually fairly complicated bugger

only thing i'd be worried about at this point (other than slim possibility that there's a prob with the block face - unlikely), is the amount of oil you've pumped out through the filter. just need to either drop the oil and measure how much you've lost, or top it up after having changed filter...

seems likeliest; guess you can only renew it again and check the mating face whilst you're at it