Search results

Wet wipes!

Ah I thought it was a 172/182, not too sure on 200’s

Do a search. It comes up often and is answered throughly. Short answer, 197 cam and timed correctly seems to be the best option. @bloke is the man.

Where’d you score that from? I’d take one at that price lol.

Yeah quality isn’t fantastic. I’m still on the stock speakers and headunit though so SQ was never going to be great anyway.

Samsung are my favourite brand of SSD. The Samsung magic suite software has a few nice features. I’m guessing that was a 120gb?

Or use one of these, it’s what I do until I can find a headunit that looks oem-ish and doesn’t cost as much as a Becker unit. https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F2171108751%3Fiid%3D153103172896

Yep. You’ll only have space for one drive in your laptop (usually) so when you pop the ssd in, you’ll need to buy a 2.5” usb hard drive caddy from eBay or somewhere. Then you can use that for storage.

Yeah I’ll bounce in for a bit on Wednesday. Shouldn’t be anything too tasking. You should still do that task I posted above. It will find any corrupt or missing files in windows and fix them. Takes a while to run though so I won’t be able to do it on wed.

Having windows on a usb is a good thing to keep around anyway. Just incase your pc won’t boot. If you find yourself with a spare 20 mins, try this. It’ll be the first thing I do when I remote in and it’ll save some time...

Failing that, I’m back from holiday on Wednesday. I can remote access into your laptop and have a look.

Sounds like some sort of driver conflict or some other software issue. Usually when a platter hard drive dies, it just dies. Download windows, download Rufus (program), use rufus to make a bootable USB drive. Turn the laptop off, pop the USB stick in, and it should boot into the windows...

Is there any adverse affects when it’s running at max capacity? Is the laptop locking up or anything?

Now it’ll need that set of ds3000’s I have for sale ;)

I thought that too charltjr but wasn’t too sure. You should be able to load that windows iso I linked previously and your system will activate it when you log in.

yeah you’ll have to *cough* find a way to bypass the Microsoft key management system (KMS) or else *cough* purchase a windows 10 key. They’re under a 10er these days

If all else fails. https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10ISO SSD’s just slide into the bottom of the laptop. You remove an assess panel on the underside, lift the old hard drive up at one side and slide it out. Then pop the new one in. You’ll need to do a fresh install of...

It can take a while sometimes. Bare with it. Failing that, do a reboot, close all the programs that are running and try again.

Christ. I hope that solves it now or I’m going to look a right t**t. Remember to use www.ninite.com afterward if you need to get any programs back. Best of luck.

Hello? Is this thing on? Perhaps, try that little windows 10 refresh I mentioned at the start of the day. It probably would have saved you doing any of this.

Reinstalled yet? It’s not going to break anything and if it doesn’t fix your problem I’ll eat my hat.

Honestly, do that windows refresh I mentioned above. Once it’s done, install malwarebytes and run the full scan. Visit www.ninite.com after your windows reinstall to get all your old programs (winrar, steam, chrome, malwarebytes etc.) in one easy installer. That website has saved me literally...

If the laptop is pretty basic spec it could have a 5400rpm platter drive. It’s not unusual for these to run at 80-100% when trying to read and write data at the same time. Have you run the usual malwarebytes and done a through virus scan?

It only takes a few minutes to do the above btw and you have literally nothing to lose.

If you can boot into Windows 10, open the new Settings app (the cog icon in the Start menu), then click on Update & Security. Click on Recovery, and then you can use the 'Reset this PC' option. This will give you the choice of whether to keep your files and programs or not. That should...

Standard box and filter was proven to be the best in one of those old mag fastcar/max power back-to-back RR tests.

Swap you for a 5930k? Amazon link. worth a shot, ey...

Fired up an early access build of Wreckfest. It's one of few recent 'A' titled games that I had installed on it. Excuse the s**t pics, when I tried to screenshot it it wouldn't capture my FPS meter. This is on a system with a 4770k, 16gb 2400mhz DDR4 and an old GTX 970.

I know. FPS and Hz sort of go hand in hand. To get the full benefit from phase1sr’s 144hz screen, he ideally needs 144fps. So the screens refresh rate is equal to the frames per second drawn by the gpu. A 144hz screen will always run at 144hz, it isn’t really hardware dependant. The FPS...

I’m tempted to fire up my other pc when I get home and prove you wrong. I can get 70-100fps in most AAA titles on high settings with a GTX970. On the 1080 it’s always 120+ Regarding the nvme drive and faster ram, I was aiming to hit the £1100 price that phase1sr posted in the 1st thread.