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As above, just undo the caliper off the carrier (with the brake line attached) and remove the carrier and swap it with the other side, doing the same process. Cable tie the caliper somewhere on the strut to keep it out the way, or resting on the top of the discs if you are steady.

I was just using that as an example, showing the brand to be different to superglue.

No. It can come in liquid or stick form. Put it on the threads and wind it into its position to stop it coming loose. Ie: Cover the end of the studs with loctite, wind the loctite end of the studs into the hub until they sit home, let it dry and then slide wheels on and wind wheel nuts on...

Needs a carbon splitter ;) But yes, it works. Im biased as i had a fair bit of carbon on my old BG.

Also the TPI locking wheel bolts are very weak.

Its exactly the same as fitting bolts, but instead you fit wheel studs into the hub (with some loctite) then place wheels on with nuts :)

M12 x 1.5 (pitch) x 26mm (thread length) with a 60 degree taper head is the standard size for 1*2's. Obviously if you run a certain sized wheel spacer then add the sized spacer on top of the above thread length. (Rear hub spacers take standard wheel bolt size)

No video....

Have you just bought it? Black ph1's look cool.

Ah, gutted mate. Know how that feels. I think the 2nd engine in and rebuilding yours is the best idea if you what to use it. If not, then I'd rebuild yours.

Good to know Graham.

Was the guy ok apart from shock? Looks like (major) cosmetic damage from those pics. What was the total damage to it?

My crees have been fine for well over a year. They actually still work, but I broke one when removing them from my old headlight.

I regularly come to the EoE meets so when there's one on next then perhaps it would be be good to meet up :)

Thanks Nathan :) Ordered the same kit as I had before but with 4300k temperature bulbs. Just bought some new cree sidelights too. Keeping the orange indicators though.

Ok after a long look, I'm going for 4300k. 5000k looks a tad too blue as this is what I've had before:

Just go clean shaven.

Not homo, pure hero. IMO.

Nah, theres 5 spokes. One of the spokes is facing towards the centre of the rear cluster.

Flipping lovely Dan :)

The dogbone will make no difference at at in vibration but a big difference in feel. It is a must do cheap mod and I'd recommend that one on any 1*2. Solid ones feel awesome when on the power. Yeah they vibrate more but not overly excessive. The gearbox one is a bit fiddly, but the engine one...

It's 5000k I'd be after. There so many on HID's direct that I'm getting confused at what ones are what! Lol

I think I'm going to get HID's Danny. This was the spec on my old ones with 5000k: I'll get some with 4300k I think for the oem look.

Can you link me to said Kit please? @the.masked.unit

I run dual optics so I'm all good. I shall have a look at them ones above.

I think in paid £130 Inc coding. Not in the shelf either, so have to be ordered from France. Car looks decent John. Orange side repeaters ftw.

Was just about to say that Scott bought a new one from Renault for not a lot of dough. Listen to the man Ry, he makes sense! ;)

Thinking of going back to the above over halagens. I love the HID look and wanted to get that with standard bulbs but I don't think I can. I can't be doing with wasting money on bulbs trying to get that look. I know standard xenon is 4300k so I'd be after that or 5000k - what I had before...

Pop up the bonnet and push up! Use a flat screwdriver to help push if it's tight. They are a push fit so nice and easy. Link to the mist washer jets? I need to get some for when my bonnet gets sprayed.

Do I get commission?!