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1. DaveDreads 2. JB21 3. Call Me Dangerous Dave 4. Danith 5. Ph1 Tom 6. J-J 7. JP83 8. TRH_Racing (Ali) 9. @The Crumb Master Mini-Me 10. Aldo_87 11. Martin_172 12. Mr Underhill (Jon)

No worries. Invest in some of their Atom Mac. If you look at my RB thread, I sprayed my brand new rear discs and dampers with it before storing it over winter. 6 months later there wasn't a single bit of rust on those discs. I think it's a bit like Lanoguard. You can literally spray it on...

Yeah, it's the sheer hardness of the Epoxy that worries me on certain parts that can flex. If you took a piece of clean steel, coated it in Epoxy and stood it upright in the water, it wouldn't rust. That I'm sure. But it doesn't self-heal. That's why it's cracked on my rear beam. It also doesn't...

I did my rear beam with epoxy directly on the steel and it's started to lift again. I've got another rear beam in the garage which I've been working on and in a few months will unleash on the group haha (sad b*****d). It's going to be a thing of beauty.

Cold weather plays a part as well.

Yes. It's not perfect by any stretch though. I've seen corrosion coming through in 12 months of using it. When you can get parts off a vehicle and really get at them with chemical preparation, the results are better. I'm always checking mine and retreating anyway, so my cars always stand the...

And the ARB needs resorting as that was properly crusty and I should have had that shot blasted.

Yes. Epoxy on pretty much all those parts. The process i used on those parts were: 1. Degrease 2. Descale 3. Deox-c (on really rusty stuff) 3. Hydrate 80 4. Electrox 5. Expoxy 6. Paint (where applicable) The only one that I didn't do was that wishbone stabiliser and you can see how it's...

This is the illustration showing the bolt and bracket (arrow and x). Don't refer to that other thread as he was after the pivot bolt which goes through the alternator. The bolt you are after is an M10. From memory, it was M10X150-65 mm (150 = 1.5 thread, 65mm in length). Part Number was...

I’ve always fixed my own tbh. Renault take your old starter and supply you with a reconditioned one. It’s a bugger of a DIY job though. Have you checked to see if any wires have come off the starter? It could also be TDC sensor. Or a bad connection in the wire or a blown fuse on the battery...

Yes they do. I used it on my rear beam, hubs, subframe etc. It dries really hard. Ideal for steel or alloy. Wurth do a stone guard underseal which can be over painted. Probably better than the expoxy as it’ll be more flexible and won’t crack.

Starter motor by the sounds of things.

Cracking job. Just take your time! Get some Dynax S50 in the seams, behind the rear door cards and inner sills. There's a little sticker on the sill. Peel it back and shove the lance that comes with the S50 in there. It's easy to use, but ugly stuff so just use it in the places you can't see...

And this is mine 18 months later. Took this shot last Saturday after a quick wash down with Atom Mac and dried it with a cloth. I've since touched everything up again so it now looks like the above shot. 1. Degreaser 2. Agitate corrosion 3. Hydrate - 80 4. Electrox primer 5. Aerosol of paint...

I'd go with option 1 and finish the job Renault should have done in the first place. It's barely noticeable with the wheels on anyway.

- 2.00 is about right Jon, should be great on the track.

OPs fault. He never stated which model he had. We're not mind readers. Just good citizens trying to help a brother out.

I think the general consensus was Gtechniq C4. I’ve been using Meguiars Ultimate Black but it’s not long lasting on exterior parts.

Yes.

I suppose it depends how rotten the flange is (that sounds so wrong). This is the same kit. 20 minutes max.

Is yours phase 1 or 2?

I haven’t used Powerflex but did 35,000 on strong flex bushes which were similar grade. They were still tight when I sold it.

They did yes. N/A by the looks of it but a couple of part numbers for you to search on. 8201270548 and 7701416287. There's one showing on Renbreakers here - https://www.renaultbreakers.co.uk/store/Renault-Clio-MK2-2001-2006-Rear-Boot-Tailgate-Floor-Anti-Slip-Mat-Cover/ Not sure if it's still...

Wow, that's not bad at all. Seen loads of newer cars worse than that. Agitate the surface rust, give it a few coats of Hydrate 80 and if possible buy a can of B&H Dynax S50 and apply in all the seams and hidden areas. It creeps into all the places you can't get a brush and has anti-rust...

A picture I took of the car in Morrisons this morning, 24 hours after the fitment of the new suspension. I'm going to have to get some 15-inch wheels on this sooner I think. I made the choice to have it set up for the circuit as I won't be killing it with road miles and wearing the tyres...

Hi Andy, yes I did. I realised I'd taken a picture of it missing. I'm rubbish at that sort of thing. Mine were in really good nick.

I bought a couple off K-Tec when my first Clio 182 had a dodgy connector. I tried all sorts to fit them but couldn’t get the new connectors on. Tried warming the pipe to soften it, but to no avail. I was lucky Renault still sold replacements pipes, so that’s what I did. Best of luck fella, hope...

Yeah it’s certainly a challenge. I’d still invest in some S50 though. A can with a flexible lance is only £17. The UB is good but I use it for underbody protection. The S50 is thinner and creeps into seams and cavities. It won’t harden in the way UB will, so will self heal if it’s disturbed...

Not the worst I’ve seen. Hydrate80 will stop the surface rust but it’s down in the seam which is the problem. Once it’s in between that, it’s just a matter of time. I’d agitate it with a wire brush, then stick some Hydrate 80 on it. And as above, whip the skirts off and repeat. I’ll tell you...

Any updates?