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Fluid level ever go down, or remain OK?
Piston could be rusted to f*ck inside the caliper too. New seal kits are cheap as chips and its easy to pop the piston out, clean up and replace seal and refit. Re-do the sliders at the same time then too and you basically have a new caliper.
Last one I did at EFI with Chris/Scoff was £30 IIRC
Dependant on date I'd probably be interested to see what the new engine pulls once its got some miles on it.
Finally... looks good - should be for what it cost mind.
I guess the guy doesn't realise a holesaw taken to a piece of sheet metal makes it ridiculously weak? The swage to the holes adds the strength required, which he seems to have missed..
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
Possibly, there isn't much else on in May, well on the right day anyway. I'll see how I get on with the new engine and running it in, then go from there. All being well it should be fine..
Had a free afternoon today so removed everything leaving just the engine...
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
Its worse than the Clio days, I've got an entire engines worth of spares lying about from the M50, and a couple of blocks. One other cast iron block that is good which I'l keep. Entire rear original rear subframe assembly, and tons more. Luckily its not kept at home...
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
The difference in the M52/M50 oil deflector/baffle can be seen here, size and mounting holes. This is because the aluminium block has extra bracing/webbing where the cast iron block does not..
Oil pump pickup usually attaches to the baffle for support, with this...
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
Yeah, I guess it's a 50/50 chance of happening. Especially if the HG is leaking.
I've got the short motor complete now, putting the head on shortly. Made the M52 parts work on the M50 block, there are a few pretty easy workarounds.
Hopefully get some more done...
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
Right then - after getting the machined block back it was quite clean after being in the washer. Cleaned it up some more and painted the block..
Spent some time removing the oil pump assembly, pistons/rods, bearings and crank from the scrap M52 block. Once I...
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
Plenty of coffee tables, lol.
In a stroke of luck I got one of them back this afternoon from the machine shop, honed and skimmed. In good condition and bores are spot on. The other is also a good spare too if its ever needed. Long weekend to put it together now :)
Should have dropped me a message, I've got two of those U brackets that have been powder coated lying about spare, could have had them for free! Nevermind lol. They are asking for trouble though - be much easier with a nut and bolt through it..
Even welded they still rip out, had that happen on track in the past. Its just pot luck really, you might never have an issue. Ended up going away from the whole circlip based boxes and using a bolt in type
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
1st M52 Alloy Block - Head Bolt's F*cked
2nd M50 Cast Iron Block - Worn Bores
3rd M50 - Above
4th M50 - Above also!
Hopefully, will never need one again! One of the above will get used and the other can remain a (good) spare
Re: E36 Track Day Hack (v2)
So after a bit of patience, I've got hold of two good condition, unworn M50 blocks. Dropping them off at the machine shop in the morning and they can choose which is the best of the two - along with a quick hone and skim and its good to go.
I use an INTERMOTOR 50172 (M14 x 1.5 Thread, 87C on 82C off), which any local factors can get in pretty easily. Useful for E36 as the fitting on the rad for the switch is M14, but looks like you'l need much smaller. The only ones they list smaller are below (3/8 BSP and 1/8 NPT).. They are an...
Cool. Adaptors I've had in the past have been NPT and all sorts of random stuff, but like you say could always be tapped a bit bigger anyway. I'l dig out the list of temp switches including their threads and temp ratings, there will be one that can be made to work.
Il find it for you later. Might be too big a thread though, as the E36 is in the radiator and quite a large thread size. By the looks of the adaptor it might be M8 or 1/8NPT, did it specify a size when you got it? I have a big list of sensors from various cars so might be able to find one the...
I'm using a Volvo fan switch, they are the same thread in the radiator. Also, they are just two spade connectors, no messing with plugs etc. I can get you the part number if you need it, they are under a tenner. I went for the lower temp one so it cuts in at 87/88 and out at 82/83, but I also...
Good shocks, great service, but the coating is cr*p IMO. I had custom GAZ Gold's on my E30, specced by GAZ with their corrosion free coating etc... it was a track only car, trailered and stored indoors. Never used in the wet and never saw the road. The shock bodies started rusting after 6...
Cool. So when you've used them for a bit, does it feel like you've got manual brakes (harder pedal) and more effort from yourself is required to get the car to stop? Or does the pedal just go soft and not do much?
Its usually only when the wheels are pre-heated far too much before coating, causing the properties of the alloy to change and creating weakness. Quite common when the company does not know what they are doing... otherwise its fine.
No single figure in mind really, I know what they have been selling for on eBay with tax/MOT though etc. Its a solid well sorted run-about with all the work done, just needs driving. Only getting rid as its too small for me, I've got a replacement (estate) diesel already!
Selling my run-about, any questions please ask. Last few tanks have given me 625-650miles reliable motoring!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161269610778
Generally depends on the profile too, and tyre itself (if it has sidewall protection etc). We run 205/50 on an 8J rim and its completely square, yet we need 215 to make a 45 look square.