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if you mean the standard steel wheel bolts, then no, you need some alloy wheel nut bolts (and some locking nuts) otherwise they could bed in and get stuck in.

ive always liked the kennie stuff, and it always seems mega reliable, i sold my old kenwood h/u to my mate it is now 6 years old and still going strong, my bro has got through 6 sony ones in that time!

shouldnt be a problem fixing it to the side of the sub box,as long as its got some room to vent off heat and the screws dont pierce through the box. ive done it before as a temporary solution and left it like that for about 6 months with no probs

ben my bros mate works for tvr and that paint is about £200 a litre! he cut a deal with one of the sprayers though and got his phone covers sprayed in that colour.

found this site, gives good info about installation of audio stuff and speaker locations on different models, there is a forum too which looks very good, a lot of people who seem to know there stuff! www.caraudiodirect.com

make sure your passengers know your amp is under the seat cus in my old car people had a tendancy to kick the amp whilst getting in and out (especially my mate with size 13 shoes) and in the process knackered the R.C.A inputs on the amp.

if you use one wire for both amps make sure it is a nice thick one as it will need to draw more current to run both amps.

KENWOOD KVC - 1000 In Dash 6.5" wide TV system with MASK key, Full motorised mechanism, Touch screen control, PLL systhesized TV tuner, built in active speaker £600 www.bass-junkies.com

i think bass junkies do the kenwood pop out tv headunit for about £800

yeah my mate told me about this but my local b&q hadnt got any and i couldnt be arsed to wait!

just lined my boot with some dynamat, i must say the sound quality has definately improved, and the bass seems a little punchier. i think now i might sell my other sub to keep the weight down as it is deafening me as it is!

dunno, seems bright to me, i didnt think it would work either but a mate told me to try it like that and it worked so i left it.

iceman, i simply cut off the cigar lighter plug and wired the black wire to the earth of my amp and the red one to the remote live of the amp, and it comes on when i switch the stereo on, easy peasy lemon squeezy! Had it wired up like that in my rt for a year, and never had no probs.

that kit is nice! not sure about that front bumper though, see if you can get a different one. i see you have a 16v as well, make sure you get some photos sent in!

shouldnt need hardly any power at all, i was going to wire up mine the same way but lack of time i just wired it to one of the amps (remote live and ground) works fine like that.

i think most pedals are a universal fit so minor drilling may be neccasary.

what make of changer is it? i remember i bought an old changer off a mate and he wanted his cds back, unfortunately it didnt work so the whole thing had to come apart, with a chisel!

oh, thats what it was in the rt, just realised you have a 172 never messed with the wires in one of those.

if i remember correctly the pink is the positive.

dtwd, no claims count for a lot! me and my mate live in the same post code and we are both more of the less the same age, we both tried a quote on my old rt and mine was 350quid cheaper than him because i had two more years no claims

i am 21, and i have just had my renewal for £1140, fully comp, i have 4 years no claims, no accidents, no points, but i live in the west mids, i cannot drive anyone eles car, i think i can add mods but it pushes up the premium. Oh yeah i am with direct line.

quite easy to fit, take the old rubbers off the clutch and brake,with most pedals they are a universal fit so just under the oval hole on the pedal drill another hole (about 8mm i think) then bolt on the new pedals. With the accelarator, it is all plastic, it unclips at the top and then slides...

i have a scorpian cat-back exhaust, and when it gets hot it starts knocking like a b*tch, i figure the heat is making the rubber mounts soft, i have heard that you can get harder compound rubber, to replace them with.

my mate got some vinal, in sheet form, i cant remember where he got it from, but he built door builds out of MDF then wrapped the vinal round and stapled it on.

ive got the clifford 300 and it is a pain in the arse sometimes!

ive always built my own boxes, you can get an 8 x 4 sheet of MDF from B&Q for a tenner, it aint hard to work out the volume needed, there is always quite a large tolerance anyway. When i get some money together (ie a job) i am going to build two 12" sub boxes and an amp rack. I havent tried...

wat you need is one of those multipin wrenches, you know the one that is like a normal wrench but has a load of pins in it so it is used for all sizes.

Again i cant say for certain, as i dont have a mk 2 clio, but on most other hatchback cars the rear speakers are usually screwed upwards, so you almost have to climb in the boot and have a good look from underneath!

nick are you thinking of the reverse sensor? some of the mondeos have a bleep sensor on the bumper as a parking aid.

i would go for a smoked look all round, dark tints attract coppers, and different tints on different windows looks odd if you ask me. This chap i knew had tints so dark he had to wind the window down at junctions cus he couldnt see a thing!