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So now we have a fully charged battery and a refurbished starter motor with good connections. Out with the multi-meter.
My first job was to check the fused cable link from the starter to the battery. Bingo! The inline fuse had blown. Just to confirm this I rigged up a bit of battery cable and...
Pre Christmas drama’s when the Clio decided not to crank, although giving the fused link cable to the starter a wiggle helped get it going. Time to investigate.
My track car suffered similar issues which turned out to be a corroded spade connector.
On further inspection I noticed the starter...
Day off today to bring the track car home and start winter preparation for next season.
I’m so blessed to have great knowledgeable people I can fall back on, but so many things went wrong this year, many out of my control to be fair, that I’m going to stop relying on others and dive into some...
My mates have the Clio 182 which is road legal but more track focussed. They're going EPAS and have bought the new PMS A/C delete kit with the 6PK PAS pulley kit after loosing the PAS Pump at Croft a few months back. The new PMS kits are very good though, nice and light and feel solid, but i'm...
On my track car i'm running CUP set up, EPAS and use the 5PK847 belt. It's great, but people are charging fortunes for the CUP kits now so I can understand why people are seeking alternatives. Personally i'd just pay the extra pounds for the CUP set up if my car was getting hammered around a track.
I'd avoid the mk1 (old style) bracket if you can. I'm running the new PMS bracket which is much more robust and better engineered. This one snapped on my daily whilst travelling to work, luckily i was just pulling into a car park so the auxillary belt didn't get a chance to wrap around the...
Got the Xenons out for the trackcar to give them a clean up and noticed the bodge on the adjuster.
Time for a quick repair.
The kit - BMW E39 5-Series Head Lamp Adjuster Repair Kit
The tools - Long nose pliers and 10mm spanner or socket
Pull the small broken ball part from the socket and...
The water leak turned out to be the door seals as suspected so got the bodyshop to sort that at the same time as wheel alignment.
Put a hose on it today for a good 20 minutes and the car is dry as a bone 👌🏻
Fitted the Michelin Pilot Sport 3’s which has transformed the way the car drives. I’d been running 205/45/16 Yokohama AD08R’s on the Turini’s but hated the way the car tramlined.
Opted for 195/45/16’s as I’d run the car on my 195/50/15’s before and that felt much better.
Alignment went well...
A bit more research into the leak points towards the door card and not the main door seal itself. I replaced the passenger door last year and removed the door card, so must have disturbed the seal. It seems water is leaking into the door and some of the water is dripping onto the main door seal...
I gave everything a good clean up.
The washer bottle bolt was the wrong one and the thread stripped, hence it rattling around.
The metal where the bolt goes through is too thin to rethread, so I stuck an M5 rivet nut and bolt which did the trick.
Put everything back together then...
Well the plan today was to fit the final piece of the intake jigsaw.
That is until I noticed the car windows had steamed up after a night of torrential rain. I knew what was coming and sure enough the passenger footwell was soaking.
First job was to check the drainage under the washer bottle...
The only way you'll stop that permanently is to 'cut it out' or replace the sill. Sadly there's a 'seam' where the sill and arch panels meet. If corrosion gets in between the seam then no amount of anti-corrosion treatment will stop it. You can slow the process down and stop it spreading up the...
Yeah I can imagine the costs on a car that needs both mechanical and cosmetic work spirally somewhat, especially if you’ve got high standards.
I’ve got both track and daily versions of these cars and have spent a fair few quid on restoration and race developments myself, so I feel your pain. On...
Got the discs and pads for the daily and finished off the rear beam.
Went for genuine discs from my local Renault dealer as they were £20 cheaper than the usual resellers. It was also nice to see they’d supplied me with a new stub axle nut and dust cover in with the price - bonus.
Didn’t go...
I appreciate that fella, thank you. I enjoy keeping it updated as the work continues and it's mainly for my reference. Plus if the cars ever go up for sale people can see what they're buying in to.
For anybody wanting to replace their rear beam, I used this thread for information on bolts etc... - https://cliosport.net/threads/nuts-and-bolts.814078/page-3#post-12005466. Please note mine is a standard car, so read my update regarding the bolts going from chassis to beam mounting.
Update - When i changed my rear beam at the weekend on my standard Clio 182, I found the bolts from the chassis to beam mount - M10 x 1.5 x 130 mm - QFT6001058Q didn't have enough thread on them. The only way I could torque them down was to add several washers which isn't ideal.
I tried to add...
Got around to sorting the rear beam on the daily over the weekend.
Went for Powerflex purple series and some new rear dampers as the old ones have seen better days and are a bit bouncy.
Fitting the new bushes was pretty straight forward and everything went in with a few belts from a rubber...
For Motorsport applications i'd also recommend Schnorr Safety Washers. Expensive but perfect to counter the loosening effect caused by vibration. We use them on our rally cars.