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Mine was alright on cut slicks all day at Mallory last year, Gerrards was a good 10-15 seconds of constant 100mph right handed cornering, never had any engine/oil problems. Probably due to the cheap'o nasty 10w40 I use being nice and thick lol.

Standard ones im guessing, they are pretty much a set design to bolt into the door in specific places - they can be had dirt cheap from scrap yards and are easy to swap

Its alright, mine are now more like brown with all the baked on brake dust, lol.

Snap... Black ftw!

Nice one - My phone ran out of battery as I was texting you back about your PAS pump lol, whats up with it?

Its a small road between J22 of the M6 and Lowton - Just off Winwick lane

M10 with a 13mm head? Cant say ive ever used one on the car, ever lol. The ones that came with this engine were M10 with a 16mm head, same as all the gearbox-to-block bolts, wierd.

3 x 16mm bolts and 1 x 13mm nut for the main live feed - just make sure you disconnect the battery first! Comes out through the top easy enough...

One thing ive never understood about the 172/182 F4R's is why did Renault use a keyed crank pulley? Yeah, the timing is 'floating' and you have to spin the belt over to tension it without anything tight - but even if the crank was locked/keyed the cam pullies are still floating so it would...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Sounds a lot different to outside (now ive heard it, lol). I had never heard it from outside, as since doing the changes above last year it seemend a lot quieter than the original Mongoose in general, especially when at 70mph. Probably leave it as is now as...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project - Decat/Downpipe - Modified Mongoose Center Section with Silencer Removed (2.5") - Modified Mongoose Backbox with 2.5" Tip (And half the internal wadding removed) Backbox Cut Open & Half of The Wadding Removed Tip Removed New Tip Welded On

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Bit of a sound clip from yesterday - the exhaust has changed the way it sounds over the past few thousand miles compared to when I first modified it... ...still, its only 97db so its all good!

Yup as said really, same engine pretty much externally so the same gearbox and drivetrain can be retained. You just need to make a downpipe and plumb some sort of intercooler in. ECU unlocking is easy these days, Scoff does it - http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=167

Been the past two years, always a good day even if its just to see some 'proper' cars. Unfortunately I cant make it there this year as im at Ford Fair on the same day :(

Yeah - its quite a common conversion, alot have done it. Engines can be picked up cheap, easy to get power from etc

Just needs a new set of brackets making and painting black really, its just being driven for now to test everythings ok :)

It could be anywhere between 150-160bhp at the moment from research, he keeps playing with the boost controller etc. The Volvo ECU has a boost cut/limiter at approx 14psi - but once thats removed from the ECU anywhere upto 190bhp is possible apparently!

Grabbed a few pictures and videos of a mates recently finished Mk1 with a Volvo B18FT engine - plenty of fun for something which has cost pretty much nothing to do in comparison to some builds! Bit of a video to come later.

Embed ftw..

Yeah - but his throttle is stopping short of the grub screw which is leaving him a high idle. If he winds the screw out to rest on it, it will never go lower than the 'high idle' position - as the throttle will be in the same position as when it sticks. If he wanted to set a 'manual' idle, he...

Oh a ph1 its an 'ok' signal, but ph2 might be coded. Easier to access the solenoid wire from underneath the engine with your hand/arm up the back I think it is on mine anyway!

It will still crank even if the immob is active... It immobilises the injectors/coilpack if its active - the UCH is what runs the immobiliser and stores the code, if the correct key is present the UCH just sends a signal to a pin on the ECU to let it know everything is 'ok to start' so to speak...

lol, mine was the same for ages. Just gimme a text whenever

People on here say they have cleaned them and regreased with success, but ive done mine 4 or 5 times now and it didnt make much difference. I rigged it up with some heavy duty industrial elastic bands like so: It just returns the TB that last millimeter perfectly..Got millions of them in the...

You need the 's pipe' and a small pipe to go from the top of the header tank to the top of the thermostat housing (next to coilpack in my picture)

Big ends - one on engine block, one on bottom of rad Two small ones next to each other - heater matrix One small one (opposite the other two^) - Thermostat housing One small one on its own - Bottom of header tank

You mean the red cut off switch? Ive removed it and just joined the wires. I kept going over bumps in the road and it would go off and cut the car out!

With regards to the other one... You can see the small pipe to the left of my coilpack, that needs a hose from it to the top hole on the 172 header tank (Ignore where mine goes as I have my header tank in the scuttle panel)

Yeah you could do - I had it fitted at first (well or so I thought it was) and it was quite a bit longer/different shape and went down then back up... Had a bit of a kink in it as the space between the engine and rad is alot smaller in a Mk1. Probably be cheaper to go down a local scrapper and...

One small one from the top of the thermostat housing to the top hole on the header tank. Header tank only has two outlets One 'S-Bend' one from front of thermostat housing to the top of the rad - I used one from a fiesta as its a better fit in the Mk1 Looks like... Chopped the end off...