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Isnt his downpipe going down and underneath like a Mk1 normally does unlike ours going through the subframe?
I looked back but cant work out which way hes putting it...
Dosent need it lol, its plenty quick enough for the track ;) let alone spending 3-4k on a S/C or Turbo kit lol.
Its fine, exhaust hasnt fallen off again since you went in it lol.
Seen it done but you will always be able to see it from certain angles and you will notice it more as you know its there - after the cost of the work it would be easier to buy a second hand bumper for £80-100 and get it sprayed as said above...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Forgot to update earlier last week also - I got the spare N/S hub back from being machined and fitted it after a quick bit of paint. Cheers again to Andy for lending me his hub :)
Freshly machined by 4mm...
Fitted...
Done!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Correct, only need the top mount. Ideally get a 172/R19 front gearbox mount too that goes to the subframe, stiffens the whole lot up more...
Emulator from here: http://www.tek-tronics.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=80
Andrew Cooke on here can decode the...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yep pretty much. Ideally you need a 172 Ph1 engine as said as it has the cable throttle body - the 172 Ph2 and 182's will not work as they are electric throttle...
You can use an engine from any car (my bottom end is acctually from a 182) but you NEED the...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Ah cool - good to know. Made the lines for M12 now so they can stay for a while lol.
Yeah, i had a research last night and it seems they have the bias adjuster at the back but it isnt connected to the beam and just runs a fixed bias?
So in theory I can...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
You dont have to swap the track at all for the engine conversion - you can use the standard valver setup if you want! Its just the engine thats swapped really, the rest stays the same gearbox etc - unless you are doing the whole widetrack conversion too...
Tried a completely different set of leads and coilpack? Ive seen it on someones car before where it had similar problems and it was the coilpack giving an intermittent fault/missfire
No because you need to know that the bottom end is locked at TDC too, hence the timing pin into the crank. Ruler is no good as it wont fit perfectly into the cams, not to mention they are sunk into the recess in the head...
Bottom End @ TDC + Timing Tool Fits into Cams = Engine is in time.
You need the horseshoe tool for the end of the cams and a crank locking pin to check it properly...
Turn the engine over by hand, pop the pin in the front when you are at TDC so the crank is locked - then check the horseshoe tool fits into the end of the cams perfectly...
They **should** be replaced, but can be reused if you are careful - mine have been three or four times now and never had a single problem. They are about £12-14 as said, but if you remove them a few times it soon adds up.
I usually use something blunt (small drive socket extension) and gently...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Quite alot done today - set about fitting the whole 172 servo/master cylinder setup to the car.
I got hold of a 172 Cup Master cylinder a while back to fit to the car, as I was still running the '1.2' item from a scrap yard that had a bit too much pedal...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
It was on the WilliamsClio stand, near ClioSport :)
Little bit of an update. My current fuel pump has done an unknown milage (170k+ after thinking about it), so ive always been weary of it packing up like the original one from the car did on the way to...
Does it do it when it revs up, then again when it revs down....? Either way its more than likely the solenoid firing/shutting off, might just be a slightly different noise