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Today I discovered that the gear stick can no longer find reverse.
I've recently fitted uprated engine and gearbox mounts and it's got harder and harder to select 1st,
it just wont go in at all, it usually finds 3rd instead of 1st.
So the other day I discovered that if I lift the reverse nob...
The tie rods are only a couple of months old as are the track rod ends,
but that doesn't mean they aren't f*cked I guess.
Ball joints are less than a year old aswel.
It's absolutely f*cked it clunks when turning both ways,
I thought it was wishbone related but when we jacked it up and wiggled the wheels the amount of movement was scary.
It wanders all over the road and i've got massive tyre wear on the inner and outer edge of both my front tyres,
in fact...
That Pug's well nice, all the owners of horrific chav wagons should be shown that picture and told,
'LOOK, that is what a body kit is meant to look like, not a f*cking snow plough like yours you c*nt'!!!!
Pick off the glue? :S
Far easier to just remove the whole section, mask it up, sand, primer x2, paint x2, lacquer x3 / x4.
Put back on, stand back, take a pic, then shove it in everyone's faces on here. :approve:
Ok mate will do, the subframe's coming off on Wed because i'm getting my steering rack replaced,
i'll get my mate to drive my down a hardware store to get longer ones once i've got the old ones off as reference.
FLOL be normal!!!
Front one is the same butter knife trick of working your way round it until it pops off,
it's held in with 3 long pins so you have to be carefull or they'll snap.
For the rear you'll need to remove the plastic cowling on the inside of the boot,
you'll see 3 nuts holding the...
Re: Drag Racing at Shakesphere
LewDew sent me a pm and said the following :
Just thought i'd put it up here in case we feel like lording it over each other in the future. :approve:
Get a flat head screwdriver or butter knife behind them and lever them off,
they're made out of a kind of rubbery plastic so they're quite bendy and won't snap.
Unless you get it live mapped, as in put on a RR and tweaked until they've optimised the power and torque with a print out to confirm it,
your best bet for a straight remap is an RSTuner box from FastChip.
http://www.fastchip.nl/
I know that's not what you asked, but I thought it was worth...
I love how almost without fail when someone post pics of their lovely immaculate Clio,
we're all more interested in the other cars in the pics. lol
I haven't seen a Nova on the roads in years, there's something nice and honest about an old 90s rattle box.
Re: Drag Racing at Shakesphere
There's no stripping involved, it's only a couple of bolts, 5 mins and it's done.
Although mine are out because of the dog, I don't have any human friends so I don't need them at all.
At the moment i've only got the 25mm inners, i've got the 23mm outers showing up on Monday,
I got the sizes off the Kam Racing website, and varified them with endless thread searches on here.
Clio Ph1 2.0 16v RS-172: Outer mount - 22mm, Inner mount - 25mm
Clio Ph2 2.0 16v RS-172: Outer mount -...
I've got a set of inner powerflex arb bushes and they're not solid,
there's a seam where they open up.
Is this normal, I mean are they meant to be solid and you slide them on the arb from the end,
or are they designed to be pushed on using the seam that opens up?
They're fitted to the front across the range,
most manufacturers tend to make cars with a little understeer as it's easier to control for the general public.
When people fit the whiteline arb they find they get a slight increase in oversteer.
Re: Drag Racing at Shakesphere
Mharvey - Sunday 14th October (best for me due to work on Saturday's but can do either)
Don - 27th
DaveDreads - Either
Laine_16v - Sat 27th / Sun 28th October (camping)
tom172cup - Saturday 27th / Sun 28th October (Camping)
sbridgey - Either date
Townlea -...