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I set them in the summer on a hot day (RS day at Oulton) and since then I've only checked hot temperatures so the difference in winter may well be higher.
The hi spec 300mm kit is pretty much the same (same callipers and pad size) but with 300mm rotors.
I've got a Gen90 ecu for sale if you want something plug and play.
Any reason for going for gaz gold over some ast sportline 1?
Also 650lb is 110nm, so I suppose you won't use it on the road again, unless you don't anyway.
Had a few good sessions in it at Oulton Park on Friday. Beat my previous best wet lap by 5 seconds but nearly had a moment doing a ton going into druids.
Yesterday I started taking bits off it to put onto the Cup. Kind of a bittersweet moment knowing how well it went on Friday but hopefully...
I take mine to Buckley Tyres. Its £29 for toe and £49 for camber/caster on the front so similar prices to where Paul goes.
My settings are front 3 degrees negative camber, 3.3 degrees positive caster, 20 minutes toe out. On the rear its 1.8 degrees negative camber and parallel toe.
I used to...
I run my AD08R at 30PSI cold, once up to temp they get to around 32-33PSI hot. The RSR I found need a bit more pressure than the AD08, try them around 31-32 cold
Yeah that's it, no point if it's no fun.
It's parked up next to my cup now so I can strip the parts off to swap over.
Yours sounded good going down the pit straight
Fair play, they're very nice figures and its good to see the manifold adding around 10lbft either side of the previous peak torque figure and more top end. Looking at your graph the manifold might even help mine out top end.
I've been looking at the usual 422/423 but I've also been considering using a 197/200 dephaser with catcams 404 and mapping in the continuous vvt control
Some longer trumpets might help your torque no end, those Titans look really short. The 423s have a peak torque band from about 4.5-7k RPM so short trumpets won't gain you anything there.
Interested to see how you get on without the VVT. I'm debating what to do with my forged engine, would be a waste not putting some BIG cams in down the line.
Go to a scrap yard or look on ebay for a Mondeo master cylinder. Guarantee you you'll find some cheap or for free.
Otherwise you've got the cost of the bias valve and all the pipes and fittings.
Run one of these on each brake line straight off the master cylinder
http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_mondeo_brake_pressure_reducing_valve___f_1113008_c_806.htm
I got mine for free though from a freind with a spare mondeo master cylinder.
I just run Ford in line pressure reducers from the master cylinder to the rear lines. Feels perfect.
If you want it adjustable then I would tee both rear lines into one bias valve with 1/4" diameter fittings (its about the same as 2x 3/16" fittings so you don't restrict anything). Then 1/4"...