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I'm working on a better poly bush for the rear beam, so will need a test car ;)

DO NOT USE RAD WELD. Causes more trouble than it solves. Radiates are easy enough to change on a cup (provided it has no AC) just allow more time to travel so you can stop and check the level.

Take it to someone with the correct equipment I.e clip, and get them to diagnose it properly.

James, I have: Piston Upper grill Knackered N/S Headlight Jc5 089 (you can use the casing on yours, as this is the one the diff circlip popped out of) Plenty of wishbones but all OEM cup items.

No. Use the genuine tools only.

That torque curve suggests it's cammed IMO.

No. Not connecting the crankshaft sensor will. Also connecting them in the wrong way round would also cause non starting.

75mpg average on mine currently.

sounds like coil pack potentially. eggy suggests that it was fuel getting into the cat. I do think we have discovered the latest ever 172.

standard...

AP do curved vein single piece rotors in 300mm with the same offset in 4x100 for £183,20 each

Your quite a new driver aren't you?

I'm not running any form of BOV.

Yeh timing on these is critical.

If not mick at diamond motors in Nottingham.

I've had a few in like that, generally 10% fuel economy increase and 15bhp on one of them

There are a few 172 cups like that, millerin's, Emma.'s to name 2.

Tell me about it, going from the supercharged ph1 to the DCI lol!

Yeh I appreciated it, I hate getting stuck behind people who won't let a faster car past!

I've just broken out the dci that's been sat in the corner of my yard since like the beginning of time

3-4 bar hot pressure. My old 16v used to do 6-7 bar when cold.

Find the nearest steep descent. Preferably with a tail wind.

Yes it's under pressure, and will happily pump out coolant.

Circlip.

If it's just the occasional misfire on idle it's quite normal. They are quite lumpy on idle as standard.

Here's mine. http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq49/dunlop172/A70FA6DA-ADFA-4D8C-89E2-D386D67E9DD2-1418-000002118510BC0F_zps20d256a3.mp4 Got no idea how to embed.

Here's the one it broke. In fairness it probably wasn't the best weld, it was done in situ, at about 2am after I'd been recovered back to the garage. So it was very much a rush job. Game over for it as it lost bits of circlip and thrust washer in the casing. And I despise breaking a JC5...

No. Diff circlip is entirely seperate to the shafts.

I know mine doesn't start seeing positive pressure until 2500, but then it builds steadily.

Mapping on my rs2 made night and day difference IME. Felt hideous before hand.