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Changed the battery . Cleaned up the terminals on both + and - cables . The earth cable from the battery and loom were pretty loose , so tightened them up. The gearbox to body earth strap was in decent condition but put a 2nd one on just for good measure as I already bought one. I couldn't see...

Thanks for the advice , I really appreciate it . I'll change the battery tomorrow and see how I get on. I'll have a look at the earth strap too .

Well I've already gone and bought a new one now . So I'll change it tomorrow morning. Does that sound right though the 10.60 - 10.80 volts when I crank it ?

Another thing to add . Which it's done before , but not today until just now is the auto lights came on straight away and it's asking for the code again for the radio as if the battery has been disconnected . It did this the other week . All the terminals are tight on the battery.

I bought 4 all the same m7 x1.0 and they fit .

Just been out and tried it as I cranked it . Before it started it was 12.61 volts , when cranking it dropped to between 10.60 and 10.80 for a split second then shoots up to 14+ volts as you'd expect. Does that sound normal to you ? @bloke

You mean put the voltmeter on when I start it up ? I haven't tried that. Is it worth changing the earth strap , seeing that I've bought a new one?

I've had it since new , 12 and half years . First original battery lasted about 8 years . Then I changed that after 2 years cos I was having starting issues , turned out to be the crank sensor. So this is the 3rd battery , 2 and half years old .

I fuckin hope so mate . I'm getting a bit pissed off with the car at the moment

No , that was as soon as i turned the engine off . Running was 14.24 Volts

Just a thought . I started a new job 3 weeks ago . I literally drive 5 or 6 mins to and back from work each day , the cars left standing all day and night . If the battery was a bit on the weak side that might be causing the problem? I've just given it a 20 mile blast down the M65 , checked the...

Bit of an update . The breakdown recovery guy came . His first thoughts from the noise and lights when trying to start was the starter motor . Then he said it's the battery not holding a charge , but the alternator is charging it, just not holding the charge . I've bought a new battery and I'll...

Quick update . I didn't get chance to look at the car due to starting a new job and not having time when I got home from work , then last weekend when planned to look at it , it pissed down all weekend so didn't want to be under the bonnet / car looking for something that I don't have a clue...

Nice to hear your cars back to full health . The guys @Birchdown are spot on . No BS , they just work their magic . @davo172 You're right , they don't need to promote themselves because they're always busy . Word of mouth is promotion enough .

But you'll have to change it back when it comes MOT time . Maybe take it to an exhaust place , they should be able to cut off the old flanges and weld new ones on . Worth a try .

Should be a hole not C shaped, but they do seem to rust through and become C shaped . They are 12 ish years old now .

It's worth a try . It's not really driveable the way it is . Have a look at that kit I knocked up . All the parts are available on ebay . You can reuse your springs and the end caps that they sit in .

Looking at those pics , both flanges on the manifold and cat look fcuked . I doubt even a new cat fitting kit would sort that out . I knocked up my own fitting kit using stainless parts , better than the original Renault ones. https://www.cliosport.net/threads/cat-manifold-diy-fitting-kit.799011/

Yeah . Those bleed nipples fit both the front and rear calipers.

Cheers mate . I'll do that at the weekend , I'm busy as fcuk this week. Thanks for your advice , much appreciated ?

Sorry mate , I've been out and just got home . Like I said . It wouldn't start , no noises , clicking, no lights on the dash etc ....... I tried umpteen times to start it , but nothing . Then it just started . I had to enter the code for the radio and the auto lights came on as if the battery...

Just to add. When I put the key in and it wouldn't start there was no noise at all , no clicking , no electrical sounds .

That's what I was thinking . I had some problems with my alternator about 20 months ago . I took it to a garage locally , recommended by someone on here . Not a specialist . He fitted a new one , which failed after a few weeks . He fitted another that last 3 months . So he fitted another which...

Yours definitely sounds like it's coming from around the steering wheel area. I could hear mine outaise the car . Like yours mine onky did it when it was hot , dry weather . When it was cooler or wet/damp mine didn't do it.

Got in the car an hour ago to gome home from the g/f's , The car started fine . Got home , the car wouldn't lock using the key fob , just the faintest of clicks. Tried to start the car and it was dead as a dodo , no lights on the dash , nothing . I tried the spare key which is basically new ...

Result . Easy , cheap fix ?

My rear heat shield had coroded through in places and a couple of the bolts had snapped off completely . I'd already put larger washers on the bolts that were still useable . I covered the heat shiled with this CT1 sealant / adhesive and stuck it back and it's been fine since and no rattles ...

Is it creaking loudly if you turn the steering wheel side to side when stationary ?

I buy all my cables for whatever I need from this seller on ebay . Top quality and good prices. Below is just an example. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLAT-CAT6A-S-STP-Shielded-500MHz-Ethernet-LAN-PC-Router-Internet-Cable-RJ45/263614016288?epid=1277485665&hash=item3d609eab20:m:mfXwf6olG8j2mi5Y7J8bRmA

Welcome to CS. If you pay to become a full member you'll have access to all the forum , parts for sale etc ........ or you could up a wanted ad . There's probably a good chance somebody will have a full interior knocking about in their garage .