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still the same s**t materials though

it IS 2 cats, but you only need one decat pipe. you'll need to look closer and see if you have an after-cat lambda sensor or not. There is a difference in length between the 2 exhausts. All good after market exhaust systems have adjustment at the end that joins the cat to account for this

throttle spindles get worn, and also contaminated with grit. thorough cleaning and re greasing usually improves the situation to almost perfect. The idle control valve is also a bit inconsistent, clean and lubricate.

thats the intention of it I believe. They were due in the first production items on friday, not had one in my hands yet though. Any aftermarket ECU will put warning lights on, but I believe the CAN code is now fully functional rather than the poor attempt that was made by the first CAN "expert"...

no drilling anything if you use the Gen90, all original sensors except TPS which comes with a direct plug in adaptor loom. Yes, carbs are the same thing as throttle bodies, just much older technology, so no electonic fuel control

replied and to get in before the children kick off, there's a brand new filter solution with these now, bolted back plate and made to fit filter.

It's a great kit when setup correctly. You need to understand how to balance throttle bodies, and setup their idle, there's been a couple of instances of people being fairly innept with this and blaming the kit which you'll probably be told about by bitchy PM. You're also just up the road from...

exactly why they do it.

said it for years, they're made of the cheapest grade stainless they can get away with calling "stainless" and the welding is normally very questionable. lifetime warranty only counts for the original owner

same reason I wont sell H&R's. fall apart, and the last set I took off for someone took almost 6 months to have fixed

none of teh drfituuuuuuuu?

he's not been there for years (I play pool with him occasionally)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-5699-instant-gasket-maker-flange-sealant-/110716701122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19c73ac9c2#ht_500wt_1156

fairly fucked :dead: LOL

yeah exactly! I kind of put the wrong emphasis on it, but £250 just on labour would still be not unexpected

I'm yet to buy any clutch kit from any manufacturer that doesn't include a release bearing. 1.2 clutch can be done without removing the box from the bay, but it's still a pain in the arse job. £250 labour isn't a bad price

old leads, weak alternator or battery, incorrectly adjusted distributor, incorrect cam timing, bad earth

not hard particularly. Needs doing on a dyno by someone experienced for best results. Road mapping is a bit crap, but it can get a car drivable in the short term

yes. yes it is a "bit" of a pain.....

this going to happen at all?

the biggest thing that immediately becomes apparent when you use any decent standalone, is map tracing, and live updating. You can always see exactly what part of the map you are at, immediately. With the standard ECU, you're relying on data logging, and "best guess" trial and error techniques...

Have you seen the canems ECU that I sell. Got it on a number of mk1's now, including one with an F4R in it, and got good results for a much more sensible cost than some ECU's. Not a high end product, but ideal for engine conversions and kit cars. much better than emerald for example, which is...

I have a startup file for a 182 turbo for an omex 600 I think. Buried in my emails somewhere. And yes, I f**king Hate MS

would need to know what ECU you're using to come up with anything

tigerseal or similar is probably your only option

shake the sensor. if it rattles it's dead.

will fit, needs a pipe blocking off

I'd be all over this if i wasn't going karting mid august elsewhere, and also off to Spa for the GP

removing a good lambda often damages it, so fitting used ones is pretty futile. Get a new sensor

well they're not mk1 as there are rear springs. Look right to me, but can't really tell without measuring