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not 100%, but fairly sure it's different.

matching the upper to the lower is half of what needs doing, matching the lower to the head is the other half. Lower only isn't the whole job

100% depends if you want to modify for the love of modifying. I've spent WAY more than that on cars that have cost less than half what your base vehicle did. Completely enjoyment based. It's called a hobby, and for me built not bought always comes out on top. The same isn't true for everyone...

I've used Valvoline in my own cars for years. very good stuff

strongly advise to not use exhaust paste that sets hard and to use only silicon. It sets with a degree of flexibility, cannot crack and fall out, and will cope perfectly well with the temperature of the exhaust

I'd get back down to k-tec for a custom map. Unless your car was done recently it will be a generic map for the cams, so a compromise. They've only had in-house custom mapping facilities for a short while now but seeing big improvements on their and other peoples previous off the shelf maps...

lol, they dont make best power until they're past 100k, service it well and it will keep going. If you're worried, get a general health check of the engine done, otherwise, there's far more things on a clio to be worried about breaking

There's the workshop manual http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf not sure if the bottom end torque data is in there though. Off the top of my head Main cap bolts I think are 55Nm, can't remember big ends and dont have other reference data to hand

for the price the 2 together is a very good deal

The reason they're offering the DTH bodies without an ECU is for people who already have standalone, or want to use something else. They're not encouraging the use of the stock ECU at all. I dont think the 182 ecu could even be bodged effectively TBH, too much tied up in Drive-by-wire. Using a...

K20 is a fantastic engine. they'll happily cope with 300bhp on standard internals with a supercharger

stock gauges aren't the most accurate way to see what's happening really. did you wire in the OBD port with the engine loom? I've had a new stat not open for over 20 minutes of idling before, remember that it will warm up faster when you're driving with some load on the engine

sounds like you could do with a new thermostat. Worth looking at the operation of the lambda sensor too, they rarely throw up a code as they dont stop working entirely, just give wrong info to the ecu

prob just means it's working properly and not opening too early. they take AGES to open when they're new, if it opens too soon, it's stopping the engine getting up to temperature

no need to touch the subframe, the sump will come out with a bit of twisting and turning if you get the engine high enough

i think you're going to need 60mm trumpets and a flat backplate to fit that lot in. Might just get away with it though

i'd imagine there's dozens of different off the shelf systems for astras. Probably best to ask on MIGweb really

boxes are paper thin. the "stainless" tubing rusts, and there's very few franchises that do a good assembly job. Even the ones with good workmanship (there are some) still use the same low quality materials

no

Louder than war, and twice as hardcore