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Still quite a big tailpipe on there, I think it will make the difference to get it down to no bigger than the bore of the main pipe. Maybe even ask Charlie to change yours to a baffled tailpipe so you keep the current look but take the boomy edge off.
It's the development time and the equipment outlay you're paying for. the software alone can stretch into thousands if you're working on a range of vehicles
put one of those on my s13, 42 row with 3/4 inlets, had to put a 100 degree thermostat in the sandwich plate to get the oil warm. The thing's nearly brand new and it's got a hole that i can't find though :( had to put a 10 row mocal on (well, completely bypassed for winter TBH) need to get my...
Yaser has them on his road car. They're stiff and it's essentially a track car. They do a good job of stopping the box jumping out of gear which he had trouble with on track
car needs to be insured to be parked on the road. However there's no reason your own insurance has to be involved to make a claim against someone. just get the car off the road now
think you misunderstood me, I'm not saying the c1j is a bad engine, it's not at all, like i said they can be lots of fun but it is old technology. My personal tastes for conversions are retro cars with modern engines rather than the other way round. My reading of the original post was wanting to...
390s should max out at over 300bhp at 3bar static pressure. I know my 370s maxed at around 280 with 2.5 bar static pressure (squeezed 294.1bhp and 260ft lbs from them at Surrey rolling road without running lean)
Care to explain how they will be different just by being removed from the bore? It's not something I'd do for a customer I'll agree, but if there was no issue before and they are refitted without damage to the same bore with the same piston then there will be no difference WHATSOEVER and...
labour cost = zero as it's DIY.
IF it really is just a rod and there's no piston or ring damage (assume this is so for the sake of arguement) all you'd need is a set of big end shells and a good rod (or how ever many are bent) If the pistons and rings are undamaged then there's no reason to...
didn't contradict myself, just made an outline suggestion, think it's fair to say I didn't need to do a nut and bolt run down of how to do the job completely as the OP said he's a mechanic.
my sugestion was helpful, yours was nitpicking and arguementative for the sake of it, you can sell a bottom end complete as easy as buy one, and probably repair the original to a good standard for less (unless the new one was a real bargain)
crude to the extreme. the old pushrod lump is fun in a 5 but it's no better than an OK engine. A modern 16v will run rings around it, doesn't even use fuel injection ffs lol