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The catcams item has shims available in different thicknesses, so this means once the initial setup is done, you take a measurement of each one. If any adjustments are required after a season, it’s a simple case of measuring the clearance and choosing a larger shim to take up the tolerance...
And a few randoms!
Got a little bit of a step here, so I’ve scribed it’s position ready for removal and polishing.
Scribed area:
I’ll also be reinstating the relief for the injector in the spacer as we don’t want the fuel hitting the wall of the manifold.
Bring on the trumpets! 😂
The famous...
Another update folks! Been making a start on building the head, so thought I’d share a few pics with you.
Here we have the catcams valve springs, solid lifter and the shim that will need to be adjusted to get the correct clearance between the rocker and the camshaft. From cold, this engine will...
Ok so here’s mine. I had the gsi when I was 19 and almost covered 2 decades of ownership! Started life as a standard gsi and ended up as a 460hp 174mph capable gsi.
My first cup came along in 2010 as a daily driver. Had a/c too and was promptly taken to the Nurburgring as the gsi was off the...
It might polish out looking at the picture tbf, but if you can feel anything with your finger nail, it needs a regrind. Technically these cranks aren’t suitable for a regrind, but people do have them done.
2 possible places for it to leak like that.
Passenger shaft boot as already said, or, there’s a hole in the diff casing from where it’s had a broken tooth off the diff internal gears.
I’ve seen the latter a f**k load of times now.
Well it’s been a while since I updated this, and that’s because not much has been happening tbh. Finalising the spec has taken up a bit of time along with gaining the all important camshaft specs, as they’re a custom grind.
I’ve got a few boxes full of catcam gear in preparation for the...
I had similar issues with my mk2 when it had been in at the body shop with the battery off. It was as if it needed to re-learn the key/immobiliser.
All I did was to lock it and then unlock it on the remote fob. After that, I put the key in the ignition and turned it on, but I didn’t turn the...
Nope, no reason at all. Don’t replace just the seal though. Do the bushes as well. They wear and allow the seal to leak as the selector shaft elongates the seal due to excessive play.
The benefit would be that with independent rears it allows you to run a softer spring rate and a separate rear arb. But you’d then need either a custom rear arb, or better still, a blade rear arb to allow adjustability. But, then you’re into research and development just for the arb. No such...
I just need to clarify here that Andy Greer was NOT admin for the club. He was admin for his traders page though, and he could remove the negative posts on there.
There’s no real way to test hydraulic lifters mate. Did you put them in a vice and squash all the oil out of them? You would’ve been better off buying a new set of INA lifters and putting them in tbh.
Best way to do it is fit the one off a 172/182. It’s smaller than the 197 item, so lighter, but also has the all important vibration damper built into it. You’ll feel a bit of an improvement in how it revs. It’s the exact same thing that was fitted to the mk3 cup race cars.
Bang a fake taxi sticker on it and make sure you’ve got a camera pointing at the back seat - you never know your luck mate!
In all seriousness though, you’re better off buying a 172/182.