Search results

Yeah plus postage to Slovenia, which tbh, I’m not keen on doing. Best option is to deal direct with Quaife/gripper.

So the Quaife is what’s known as a automatic torque biasing differential, so it sends drive to the wheel that’s spinning, but it never fully locks giving 100% drive. A gripper is a plate diff. This means the amount of lock up the diff gives can be setup according to the desired usage. However...

Nice one mate. 👍🏻👍🏻

Well assuming the jb1 gearbox runs the same size diff as a jb3/jc5, you’ve got a few options. I can supply and fit a Quaife or a gripper. Unfortunately I don’t know if they share the same sized diff. Whereabouts in the world are you mate?

Let me know what colour the oil is when you drop it!

Not anymore I don’t mate. They proved to be as toss as the originals unfortunately.

It’s the clearance between the cams and the journals - same thing you check with the bottom end bearing clearances.

Yeah but has the clearance been measured mate? Those clearances are quite important.

Please tell me the cam journals have been measured in terms of clearance after the hone?

Great looking car that mate! I’ve been tempted by a Melbourne red one, but no price can be agreed at present.

Ok mate no worries. Yeah deffo replace the clutch

Yeah that’s the box that’s fucked. It’s a bearing failure, most likely the mainshaft. Diffs are worthwhile, but for road use go with a Quaife. I’ve got a box here that I’ll be rebuilding and selling if you’re interested? Can be built with a Quaife too, but you’ll be looking at around £1600.

Stats fucked. It’ll stop the dpf regen too with it being that cool.

Nah the hubs are very much plug and play buddy. You need to have a look at the subframe to see if the rear bolt holes have elongated. Definitely check your wishbones though, but the drivers side looks to be giving the correct cup castor offset.

Run the downpipe under the box in between the subframe. ? - think outside of it. ?

Just run it out over the gearbox if space is that tight.

Why are you trying to get the plate out anyway mate?

There’s Sean Edwards in Shirley/Solihull. Sensible prices too.

Technically though, the weight is higher with the column in the position it’s in compared to the pump/hoses. But that’s seriously splitting hairs!! ???

You can put shims behind the pressure relief valve head itself, but if you’re doing it to improve oil pressure overall, don’t bother. You’re wasting your time mate as it doesn’t work. I don’t have any pictures either unfortunately.

The most important thing is that it gets up to temp and can regen the dpf mate. Quite what they’re like with a dpf delete, I don’t know as we don’t see them with that sort of work done tbh. You may find you don’t have any issues mate. I can only base my experience on what we see at work, and...

@bill that’ll be the battery positive wiring recall mate. It’s in the boot and passes through the boot floor. It’s to check for corrosion etc causing problems. Parts aren’t available until later on this month, or at least that’s the update we had the other day. If the car doesn’t get up to...

Chassis leg *looks ok from that shot tbh mate. Get a bodyshop to give it a once over and get their opinion though. If they reckon it looks ok, you’d probably get away with drilling spot welds and fitting new panels yourself. All depends on how good you are with a mig welder and setting up a jig...

You’ll need a bodyshop to pull a lot of that mate. The only panel that’s a bolt on item is the slam panel. All the rest are spot welded on. It doesn’t look like it’s taken the chassis leg on the n/s, but you can’t really tell from the angle the picture has been taken.

For me, my original cup was the best fast road/track compromise. It had the following: Kw v2 coilovers & Ast top mounts (no adverse nvh from top mounts) Vibratechnics engine and box mounts (a bit of feedback through the wheel) Standard dogbone with the bush turned 180 degrees to reduce...

Cup wishbones

Non cup n/s wishbone

yes, yes they did. Yes mate, you are reading me correctly. Before they fully understood the real issue, this is what they did to try and rectify the knock. If you google Renault Clio top mount, or use the search function on here, it should bring up more information on the revised design. ??

That’s the ‘official’ Renault repair to elongate the hole mate. It’s actually the strut top washer/spring that caused the issue. It was rectified with a revised top mount design.

And it still doesn’t have enough f**king volume!! ?