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They’re about 34mm off the top of my head mate.

Nope no suspension removed mate. It’s literally a case of dropping the diff, popping the shafts and out they come. I work with a lad who can have an N47 engine out in 45 minutes. Lol!

undo the propshaft nut, unbolt the diff with a stand underneath and lower it a little. Pop the shafts out the diff and lower it more. One shaft has to come out first (can’t remember which side!) and remove the other shaft. Out she comes! yeah there or thereabouts mate. But that’s probably...

Lol! If you’re in the s**t with it mate, yeah I’ll have a look over to see what we can see. 👍🏻

😂😂 you ain’t got the wiring sorted out yet!!

Same thing happened to me with the AG mate. Knowing what was coming also meant I knew I wouldn’t have time to keep faffing with my mk2 either. It’s a shame to see the ad, but I can fully understand your reasons why. GLWTS. 👍🏻

@MarkCup that was interesting to see how he removed the diff! We don’t do it like that at work, and I can have one out in about 15 mins if I get a wriggle on. Might try it the way he did it to see if it’s any quicker. Lol

If you get the box out and send it to me, I can strip it, rebuild it and supply and fit the bolt in plate to stop the failure happening again. 👍🏻

No worries mate! Yeah definitely keep us posted!

You’ll only need solid lifters if you start chasing big n/a horsepower tbh mate. I’m building one currently for one of my mates and that’s going on solids. Dry sump and 50mm itbs in the pursuit of numbers! There’s a thread I started on here somewhere.

Looks clean mate!

Ah right ok, well it’s not monstrous mileage tbf mate. I’ve had these lifters apart to make a dummy for converting an engine to solid lifters, and I can see how one could fail and stick.

How many miles had the engine covered before the rebuild?

No worries mate. 👍🏻

Flol! I tried ringing you the other day too! 😂

I’m afraid I don’t do Instagram mate. I ain’t down with the kids! 😂

Right ok. Well you’ve either got a failed/stuck tapper/tappets, one of the collets hasn’t swayed correctly, or as @bloke says one of the followers isn’t sat correctly. All my opinion, and I can’t listen to the sound files you’ve put on for whatever reason, so I can only guess at best.

So how have you checked the cam timing but not the crank timing? Did you not put the locking pin in the crank when you checked the cam timing? What poundage rate are the uprated springs? Did you fit them at the correct fitted height?

You’re welcome buddy. 👍🏻

Its fine mate, and it’s stiff because the bearing is new. 👍🏻

Don’t weld it. You’re pissing in the wind and playing with the steam.

Google renfort plate. That will solve your problem.

I’m only a slim chap, so it possibly wouldn’t be an issue for me I suppose. Comfort always wins for me though! Lol!

Recaro Pole Positions are THE most comfortable bucket seat I’ve ever sat in mate. Did the journey over to the Nurburgring in mine loads of times and always arrived at both ends of the journey feeling fine.

Have you googled it to see if there’s any common issues? I had a problem with my K4 Karcher. One quick google and £14 later it was fixed and back in use again.

I’m pretty sure that’s the main one for the ecu, so you need to be checking each one to make sure it’s connected. Volt drop is a good way to test them individually at the ecu plug. You’re looking for around 0.01-0.03. Don’t resistance test them with the ecu connected - you’ll not make the ecu...

The pump and coil pack receive 12v as it’s switched by the earth. Have you checked all the ecu earth points on the gearbox etc? If it doesn’t get an earth it will do nothing.

What you wanting to know about Grp n timing mate?

What do you plan on using the car for mate?

DO NOT USE GL5 SPEC OIL. That post from Mick is actually incorrect for a jc5. You only need GL4. GL5 oil is to slippery and it will kill the synchros.