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£260 delivered from me for one. A proper 2.9kg ttv one too.

Hammer + blunt prybar + whack = pulley spins and becomes free and easy to remove. ??‍♀️

No mate. You need it plugged in on the car and powered up to communicate with the ecu.

Honestly mate, you won’t have longer pedal travel on a cup mc and Brembos. Mine were f**king awesome on my cup, and properly hauled the speed off. I was using ds1.11’s.

At least that makes 2 of us then! ? no progress on this atm. Still finalising all the outstanding details/specs.

Right, so with your car being a 182, they all have the 130 box. The speedo reading is taken from the abs in the 182’s and late 172’s. However the 172 cup, and early ph2 172’s run the 129 box with a speedo drive on the gearbox. A 182 can run either the 089 found in the ph1 172, or the 129.

I can supply and fit both of those diffs cheaper than anyone else mate. I can also supply a diffed and rebuilt 130 box if you’re interested?

Couple of ‘interesting’ gearshifts in there. Nice to see they still can’t build a decent gearbox.

Right, ph1 upper inlet is different to the ph2 182 upper inlet. The tank vent valve on the ph1 is fed into the breather plate, then back into the inlet. The 182 doesn’t. Easiest way around it is mod the ph1 inlet to accept the fbw tb as the bolt pattern is different. Blank off the fuel tank...

Flol! Nope definitely not adding one of those, and at only 3mm thick, it’ll do next to f**k all. Girdle plates need to be thicker than that to reduce the twisting forces.

Let me know a spec and I’ll be able to give you a rough idea of the cost mate. Expect ££££’s though as they aren’t cheap to build.

Thank you for the kind words mate.

It’s going to be a slow build mate. Got a lot of details to finalise, but happy to keep updated.

Not quite mate, but not far off. Lol

Well there may be spec changes along the way mate tbh. I personally want to see some good numbers out of this one, so this will be a thorough and thought through build.

Flol!! It’s basically a f4r 738 engine found in the 182. The rest of what can be seen in the picture is from left to right: Properly ported 738 head Custom grind cams Cam cover Block and dry sump plate There’s also a trumpet sat on top of the dry sump plate to give a perspective of their size...

Which bit mate? Afraid not. The throttle bodies on this engine are sized for proper hp though.

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There’s a handful out there running dry sump tbf mate. I’m afraid this is being built for a mate.

And so, here we have a very interesting little challenge! Spec isn’t going to be disclosed, but I think the picture speaks for itself that it’s a bit different. Cams are a custom one off profile too, of which no one knows the spec! Lol! Knobbly yes, and a bit of measuring and calculations will...

You don’t need a vac line to a fpr on a n/a engine mate.

And I can vouch for this as I speak from experience - £2.5k bill for a driveshaft failure! ?

Unfortunately I’ve never had any dealings with a scenic shifter. The ones I’ve seen are modified to copy the original shifter lever, so you may need to use a short shift pin.

Just found this whilst perusing YouTube! Proper rally cars and none of this wide arch big wing b****cks that you see in the WRC now. Proper.

I used mahle bearings in my engine. Not a massive fan of the race type bearings. You need to machine the block for the tags, but that’s only a small amount of the work that needs to be done if you’re aiming for reliability. That engine of mine was around 12:1 compression ratio, so still...

Yep, as above don’t bother with it as they are absolutely s**t. Depending on what reconditioned box you’re after, I may be able to help as I’ve got a couple I’ll be refreshing and selling.

I have the following: E2 - earth F1 - signal L3 - 5v supply Looking at your picture above, the black and white wire (middle wire in the plug) should be the signal, so F1. Just going through my wiring diagrams now that I did when I carried out the conversion.

Sorry mate, completely forgot to look out the wiring for you. Right so here’s the wiring pinouts that I ran: Pin 79 gen90 - pin 1 phase sensor = earth Pin 74 gen90 - pin 2 phase sensor = can signal Pin 78 gen90 - pin 3 phase sensor = power supply 5v. Hope that helps mate. WhatsApp me if you...

It could be the rear main oil seal, but it could also be the rear main cap as well. Both are a big job to do, with the latter being the biggest of the 2.

Yellow circle is your driveshaft boot/seal. Blue circle is the casing join that’s leaking. Only way to sort that is to take the box apart and reseal it.