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You wanna try driving up the internal ramps on a ferry then mate in traffic!! Loads of slipping the clutch, followed by everyone thinking your a dick and showing off when you lift off and all they hear is the turbo chatter!! 2 bar of boost made it, erm, loud! Flol
My cup measures in at 568 front and 570 rear. That's the distance between the top of the arch and the ground. Measured on 16's so a tad less on the 15's.
But it as has already been said, it's not that simple. For instance, if you run a standard 1*2 you'll destroy the roll centres and it will...
Compression ratio is lower on the 740 for definite (9.8:1 f4r736 >11:1 f4r 736) The cylinder head will be the same mate, but the shapes of the ports will be different, and potentially their position. All the cylinder heads are from the same casting you see. Cams will be not quite so wild either...
The bolts are M5 stainless steel in the one I've seen that's failed. As I'm sure your probably aware, stainless steel is not designed for high tensile applications.
Your better off with a gearbox rebuild imo. Re-use the plate just use high tensile M5 countersunk bolts and loctite. That's all...
That's the downside of running a gripper and lower cw&p unfortunately mate. It's all about the trade offs. You ideally want a long 1st gear to get the car moving and up to some decent speed, then the remaining gears nice and close to keep the car in the power band.
Ooh ooh!! If you do that you could bring it round to mine and we could build mine and yours up at the same time!! Like 2 little homosexuals!! Pmsl!! No kissing though. The dog will get jealous. (As in the spaniel! Lol)
What races you thinking of doing as well? I'm available for general verbal...
It's not a straight swap I'm afraid. You need to drill and tap the cylinder head for some of the mounting bolts (1 I think off the top of my head) and if it's the same as a 197 inlet the ports in the manifold are higher up. You need to do some serious porting to make it work. By the time you've...
Hi mate. I'd have to make the call to gripper, but it's whatever's available from them mate. Your probably as well with the lowest one they do as you don't need the top speed.
Lol yeah I can see how your decision was influenced then!!
Ah right ok, so a similar spec to mine then other than you've got itb's. I'd certainly be interested to see what hp yours makes as a comparison for what the R3 spec engine should make.
Ah yeah that's fair enough mate. Whats your engine spec then?
For serious hp you need to be up in the regions of 50+ mm on the bodies due to the size of the inlet ports. You also want around a 7-10 degree taper from the itb to the inlet valves. It all helps with cylinder fill you see.
I'm...
As Martin has said, the safety devices one comes ready to bolt together and bolt in. You have to weld strengthening plates to the shell though where the cage bolts in.
If you get a custom cages or oreca you have to weld them in fully and they come as a load of tubes. The omp comes in 2 options...
Mark fish do safety devices ones and there's a group buy currently on for them on here. You can't see it though as you've not paid the membership.
Others are custom cages, oreca (available from ktec) and omp. I wouldn't trust an eBay one with anything other than hanging clothes off tbh. Just my...
You need to give it a pwm signal, or a digital signal opposed to a analogue signal for the fully variable cam timing. Your ecu should have these outputs.
The R3 engine I'm fitting is just all the running gear into a 1*2 block mate and running on a jc5. Don't have the money or the interest...