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It may only be down to something as simple as homologation reasons with the standard ph1 being a narrower track width from the factory when compared to the ph2. It's like the cup racer wishbones give the same amount of castor increase as the ones fitted to a 172 cup with the offset hole...

It gives me something to aim for. Lol!

Seen it on btg earlier but I'm saving the video for tonight when I'm busy.......lol! I must be honest the exhaust note has no appeal mate. Reminds me of the vxr. I don't know what it is, but all modern 4 cylinder turbo stuff sounds the same nowadays. Each to their own though.

Full length video of the lap. Not watched it myself yet. http://youtu.be/02cpzgoVqC4

No worries at all mate. We got there in the end! :)

Driving like an absolute hoop - it's what I do! Lol

Flol! You love it really!

Im glad to see that they included another set of tops to suit your Ast top mounts mate! Clearly they listened to me when I called to make the demand! Lol

Only if you drive it like you stole it!!

Lol! You change your mind like a prostitute changes her knickers!!!!!

Yeah that should be standard for any 1*2 mate. There's a tolerance though of course, but it's monumentally big to accommodate any deviation during manufacture/use.

Yeah they're bang on mate! Didn't know that they did them that long now either tbh!

No worries mate. Happy to help.

I'd contact spax and see if they offer any stiffer springs for the rear mate.

No worries mate. Do you know what your spax setup is? As in current rates? You can usually get away with altering the rates by around 25-50% either way of what they currently are you see. Also you need to know what size the rear spring id is. The ast's are 51mm or 1.9" in old money and to get...

If it was me I'd be going with a 350-400lb front and a 250lb rear mate. My kw v2's were 336 front and around 225 rear (that's taking the motion ratio into account for having the original inboard location) and the car was sublime on the road and bumpy lanes and alright on track. Always did well...

That tells me there's a difference in the damper settings then as I run the sportline 2's with 450 front and 475 rear. Yeah it's stiff but I can still push on on the roads with confidence. It's surprisingly comfortable when set on full soft tbh.

Nah me neither, although James's was the closest one I know/knew of.

I'm on cup racer wishbones so I doubt there will be much movement tbh. I'll have to get some filming done.

Have you not checked it on a hunter system then? Or with string?

I run 3.2 degrees negative and 20-25 minutes toe out up front. 2.75 neg rear and standard toe in. The best thing you can do is drive it, see how it feels and adjust accordingly. There's no hard and fast rule regards setups. It's all personal preference.

I still need to put my gopro in the wheel arch and go out and do some filming. I'll see what I can do as it would make for potentially the most boring, yet interesting video! Lol

I'll have to bring the shotgun out of retirement if I've been told porkies!!! :lolup:

Yes and no mate. You need to measure the bump steer ideally and whatever the best position is would be where you'd leave the steering arms. This can vary between upwards or downward towards the hub and parallel to the ground. It all depends on which position gives the least amount of bump steer...

06 or 08 plate blue 197 with white wheels, grilles, mirrors and cup racer roof vent. Oh and loud exhaust that popped and banged on overrun.......legend.

There's more to it than that though mate. You need to valve the dampers to suit, get the spring rates correct, optimise the roll centres etc etc (and not all in that order!) before you can get the correct calculations to do an adjustable arb. If you've got a spare 2-3k this would undoubtably be...

Lose half a degree of camber as a starting point. The roll is a combination of spring rates and damper valving.

What camber you running up front mate? I'd be tempted to say it's not stiff enough all round tbh. Maybe more so at the rear. N/S/F on the first picture is still running a bit of negative camber as well so it shows that something's working!:cool:

The bearing/olive area mate.

Can you upload a picture?