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The ticking noise is the carbon canister under the drivers side wheel arch most likely. Stick your head down near the front bumper and you should be able to hear it. They sound like a diesel if the dephaser is fubar. Dephasers make a lot of noise when dying.

The problem with the studs is that a weak point is created where the threads are finished where the shank is. From experience 12.9's tend to rip the threads clean out of the material they thread into! Lol! Are they M8 or M10 out of interest? Unbrako is one of the best brands out there for h/t...

Personally i would replace all the studs with high tensile bolts. A 12.9 or a 10.9 bolt would take some serious abuse before it snapped.

Yeah they're pretty good from what i remember. My mate has one so i'll ask him and let you know. You can get a lot of the information off autodata if you have access to it (torque settings, clearances etc,)

Do a search on Ebay mate. There's one on there thats a cd rom for £15.

How did you get your interior door handles to sit flush with the carbon door cards?

Are you going to pipe it up as a diagonally split system or just front/rear?

Providing its piped up correctly, then yes it will be fine. My Cup has done loads of laps of the 'Ring without problems + trackdays.

"Fitted the 172 Cup rear bias valve to the car the other day. I didnt realise that the headlight adjuster thing is in the way of where the cup bias valve is suppose to sit. So removed that and now have the vlave in its place. I fully dont understand how it works as when the car in on the ground...

I have some pictures of it but I don't know how to upload them on to here! I will be at donington tomorrow if your there? Won't be in the car but I have pictures on my phone. I went with the 6point option but added crossed door bars and a harness bar. The full cage they offer has bars here there...

I have a customcages roll cage installed in a 172 cup. Required a small amount of adjustment to get it in properly, but nothing drastic. Plus its not a dash dodger.....