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Mine run around the front of the shock and even with coilovers I haven't had any rubbing. Although I don't have the bulkhead fitting which does allow the line to run a bit tighter.
Not sure I would want those fittings sticking up in the boot floor like that. If you change them for elbowed ones...
I've run mine fuel lines pretty much as you suggest here. Along the passenger side of exhaust tunnel and then up into the skuttle just beside the washer bottle. They then run across to the drivers side in the scuttle and out of the AC panel before going to the fuel regulator mounted in front of...
That looks straight forward enough. I have a few spare hinges and a couple of extra doors so maybe I'll concede over the winter and get it done.
In the meantime I'm going to cut as much metal as I can out of the existing doors and along with the lexan rear screen due in a couple of weeks that...
Snetterton is a great track. The very first track I ever drove on, albeit about 20 years ago! And in it's old configuration back then. And I did my ARDS test there back in 2014 too. Definitely another track that rewards the brave. Especially around Coram where loads of time can be gained if you...
I saw that you had trimmed it Ilya, definitely an improvement. Perhaps next year I'll bite the bullet if no alternative turns up. Out of interest how did you deal with the hinges? Am I right in thinking you have to take them off the old doors? Is there a reinforced area here like there is on the...
Yes mate. Very happy with the bonnet but I haven't ordered his doors because I don't like the way the windows have a lip all round so the plastic windows don't fit as they should. I think it looks a bit odd too. The CM Composites ones were much better. I'm just waiting for someone to start doing...
Just a quick update tonight. back from holiday on Friday so cracked on with fitting the fibreglass bonnet.
The fit is good and the finish is certainly good enough for a race car although would need some work for it to be perfect for a road car and especially if it was going in a dark colour...
We use these starting points regardless of the track. As you know ambient temps has a massive effect so what worked at a track one day may be completely wrong the next time you're there.
More technical tracks with more corners and/or more heavy braking will have your tyres hot in no time where...
Far too many variables to be definitive. As a starting point we always start with 22psi at the rear and 20 at the front. That’s with 15” track tyres.
Just monitor pressures and temperatures until you get an even 30psi (there abouts) and even temps across the face of the tyre.
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Some tyres aren’t available in 15s. Yokohama AO52s are an awesome track tyre and very expensive but not available in 15inch.
There are many good reasons for running 15s though. Prices are considerably cheaper and wheel weights tend to be lower helping unsprung weight.
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Better turn-in but more importantly a better contact patch with the wheels turned and under load. Potentially reducing under steer.
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Surely the lines coming into the front wheel wells should have straight end fittings on them? If you are using the standard set up they should run to the brackets in the wheel arch and from connect to separate braided lines that run to the calipers.
Although your kit looks quite different to...
I can see now you have the non Cup MC. That’s why you have the second tee piece. I’ve seen that mounted on the inner wing to the left of the MC looking from the front but I would have thought either side should be ok.
Might be worth speaking to Mitch at Proline. He was really helpful while I was...
You last screen shot is my car. Assuming you have the same kit as me, I had to move my bias valve forward of the handbrake to have enough length to reach the MC. But then again it probably depends on where you are coming through the bulkhead.
PM me if you need more info.
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Thanks mate, I’ve been very happy with how it’s turning out.
I have 3 A4 sheets of all the torque settings.
I’m on holiday at the moment but I’ll try and remember to DM you when I get back.
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I bet it did!!
My fibreglass one has arrived now. It’s so much lighter and still has reinforced captive nuts for the hinges. So I think it was worth it.
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Thanks mate. It’s come close a couple of times! I just love it too much. Building the car is as much fun as the actual racing!
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A bit slow in updating this but nothing much to show yet. Lots of planning going on.
I've begun weightsaving phase 2. starting with ordering a plastic rear screen (not due until mid September!) and also some new Starrett hole saws to tackle the doors and lose a bit more weight out of them...
Thanks mate. I try and allow about £1k per weekend. That covers race entry, fuel, accommodation, and sometimes a test day.
Some weekends are cheaper and some are more.
Tyres last a couple of weekends.
And of course this all assumes you have a functioning race car!
2 years ago I burned through...
Don't try and start the engine until you've had it out and cleared every last stone out. When I rolled at Donny I was back there a month later after repairing the car only for the engine to bend a valve in quali because I missed a stone trapped in the cambelt cover which then caused the belt to...
Last week was a good week!
Up at Silverstone Dan at AME was suitably impressed with the engine after it's first run on the dyno and after a bit of fettling in the map managed to gain another 5bhp. It all helps!
After lunch we worked solely on the geometry, removing my toe out shims at the rear...
Nope. There is a separate series just started this year. Turbo Tin Tops. But only for cars that were either turbo or supercharged at production.
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I’m competing in the CSCC (Classic and Sports Car Club) Tin Tops series.
Open to all NA cars up to 2.0. The Clios have their own class B.
Class A tends to be populated by Honda Civics, Integras and the odd Ford Focus.
Class C is Fiestas, D is for cars from 1.5 to 2.0, E is 1.2 to 1.5 and F is...