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Clean silver or white steelies look good aswell.

I prefer nicely sprayed steelies.

Doesn't really matter imo as long as it's circular from inside to outside.

You wouldn't be the first to have a rear pad fly out of the caliper. Happened to a few guys on here iirc.

Your's isn't a cup!? Only cups have as they don't have spare wheel and the carpet would be sagging without the mdf reinforcement.

I'd let a specialist have a look at this. Probably a fault in the aux belt system wich can lead to bigger problems. Failed aux belt getting ripped into the cambelt => pulleys slipping => valve says hello to piston => $$$

Headbolts should be E14 afaik.

Depends on the wheels fitted (14", 15"). But anything between ET 35 and 45 will fit fine. But ET 52 with 20mm ("ET 32") spacers should be fine aswell.

Dunno. But the manufacturer specific stuff is often more expensive then the generic OBD shite.

RSTuner. Very capable for diagnostics (with ABS/Airbag/OBD addons) and flashing maps. Included datalogger is a great tool aswell.

H&R's have fixed damping (which is pretty good though). But they seem to have problems with getting play in the front struts (speaking from expierence). But i guess coilovers will never be a fit and forget thing :(.

That's the right route!

Valver "Clover" Speedlines. Cheap and solid.

Correct.

Ph1 172 as they are pretty cheap nowadays. Fit some proper suspension, brakes and tires. Give the car a good check over to make sure everything is sound. I'd recommend a bucket seat and harness aswell.

Almost forgot: you'll need to support the engine from below and remove the upper engine mount to gain access to the cambelt.

58mm is correct and get some spigots.

Huh? Front top mounts are always the same. The lower bracket bolt spacing on front the strut is different though: Non-sport 52 or 58mm; 1*2 54 or 60mm. Rears are the same through the range (fitment wise).

Piss easy on an 8V. Remove cambelt, rocker cover and undo the headbolts. Take off head.

More noise? Yes. More bang? No.

Boot floor looks alright. Not a fan of "stripped" out rears and standard front seats though. Looks wrong to me.

The "piece of engine" is actually the gearbox' 5th gear cover. Setup looks fine as long as the wheels still have enough space to move. In my experience, removing foglights and arch liners offers a sufficient cooling wwithout the need for a chunky ducting.

Might be possible to lengthen the pedal arm, where the cable is mounted to and then tilt the pedal further down.

Shaft too short?

NGK PFR6E10 only.

It'll make a difference. If you reduce the "diameter" of the quadrant, you'll get a smaller perimeter which means you'll need less cable "length" for the same opening angle.

Looks "err" interesting. What kind of throttle body is it? A different tb "lever" with a smaller diametre should improve the ratio. You could use a ph-1 cable throttle aswell.

Yup. You'll have to adapt the ratio between pedal travel and throttle opening angle then. Do you have any pictures of the current setup?

TDF's cable throttle adapting plate? Had the same issue on my ITB setup. Solved it with sume nuts on the upper bracket mounting studs to angle the pedal more. Cable needs readjusting then though. Another option is bending the "pedal-arm" fürther down.

Did you swap the gearbox for a "speed-sensor'd" one? As the speedo gets the speed signal from the ABS system.