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That sounds like either a minor air leak or incorrect timing.

Yes, anymore than a constant > 10 degrees whilst the vehicle is in motion the and it'll throw the general fault. Does the light only come on when you either turn the wheel or when you are driving (but not touching a pedal)?

Light Is on because your wheel isn't straight. Straighten the wheel and all will most likely be good again

It is air in your cooling system causing the problem so to fix it you need to bleed it correctly.

Mine just won't start first time when left standing over night but that's because of my fuel rail (its mahoosive) and the initial prime cycle isn't enough to properly fill it. Its just an age related thing I'm afraid

It's most likely going to be an air related issue rather than a sensor so try again.

If it revs fine when stood but won't when moving its more likely to be load related rather than an actual injector issue. diags needed but most likely a MAP, TP or H02 issue

As above, a brand new genuine clutch kit should not be heavy at all. LoLz at the attempt to upsell though, two thumbs up at the dodgy garage. He failed to sell you a £17 clutch cable to as thats easily another hours labour on top for them.

Damn, I thought my 154k was hard to beat.

I'm taking my interior out tonight Phil... rematch! (Joking of course but your Cup is F'n fast)

I had it happen on the M1 coming back from Pod in an old 19 16v... very scarey as it trashed a wheel and locked it up. Always use threadlock on the carrier to hub bolts

Cling film for the win Clarkey ;)

Such a tease... you won't do it because you are scared it'll become your daily driver. Woop woop... CSS convoy fun.

Coilpack, injector or HO2 sensor is my guess but ideally it needs plugging in

Not strictly true Jaff as Mitsubishi, GM and even VAG have all had issues with heat soak on the direct injection platforms (GM exactly the same as Renaults IIRC).

Looks bang on mate, don't change a thing

Are you sure its actually on 3 rather than just running rough? If its temp related I'd be tempted to get it looked at electrically first off and if all is well there go mechanically (ie Comp test) Mick

This... new uch required.

Somewhere with CLIP.... as already mentioned above. Find your nearest specialist

Renault won't do that... I'd be very suprised if they did.

Yes, CLIP can do this but why are you running a 195/45/15 when a 195/50/15 will bring you to well within tollerence of a 205/45/16? Sorry to keep asking this but I don't understand why you've opted to run a smaller tyre knowing it would do this to your speedometer.

LoLz Its pikey! Its nothing new and takes a SWF then changes it to lie to another output component but your problem isn't in the device itself but in what you're wanting to do with it on a Clio Sport. I'm sure kit car owners have great sucess with these but they don't tend to have CAN Bus...

I would seriously advise you don't try that because that twisted pair is your primary CAN Bus If you're considering splicing some pikey contraption into those you really should do some homework so you understand the basic principles of how CAN Bus works before you stop your car from starting...

Its not a specific wire but CAN I'm afraid so a white/purple twisted pair

Different but i like it. Reminds me of a renault 19 lol

No it's a standard sport bumper but with the washer holes filled and Cup racer brake ducts perma-fitted

Finally fitted my bumper... Happy is not the word!

Most likely loads of water in an old exhaust matey, pretty normal tbh.

Yep seat wiring is mega common/mega simple to check and fix but it could be a number of other things to so if the seat wiring wiggle doesn't fix it get it diagnosed properly as guessing can be expensive. Mick

So much work to do today. SO much want to get this fitted to my own car