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It can yes but the only way you're really gonna know is to either drop the oil/sump and re-seal it or drop the box and inspect/replace the oil seal. If you're planning on keeping the car for a while i'd say do it and stick a new Valeo clutch kit in there for good measure. Mick

You can always BBM me... oh wait, no you can't lol x

Don't push the new one in too far either or else it will leak... not a leason to learn the hard way!

Either the coil has gotten wet or the plug wells are full of water.

Been covered a fair few times now this but... again: If all you're seeing is "_ _ _ _" flashing on the multifunction display carry out a clockset reset. Ignition off > Key in barrel > press and hold button on wiper stalk > Turn key to Ignition ON (But don't start the car) > Clockset will go...

Firstly - You're a very naughty boy and don't do that again! Secondly - Remove the upper inlet plenum and the plug leads then look down the plug bores... I bet they're swimming in water! Expel the water and your misfire will disappear fo'sho Mick

Check you've still got 5th and does the gear stick move about like a crazy thing when driving?

Worst part of this job... bonnet off - If the bolts snap you're fekked! I don't know how Danny does these as some people don't bother removing the bonnet but I like having full access on these. The last one I did (Late 2011) wasn't bad until I came to the crank lock cover bolt which someone...

The temp gauge on your dash only shows the engines coolant temp and not the actual oil temp... This in no way reflects the temperature of the engine oil. Engine coolant comes up to temp pretty damn fast in both NA and Turbocharged engines but the oil temp can take a good 15-20mins (if not longer...

The cheaper generic readers are good at best for code reading. The live data they churn out is hit and miss; they will be strong on one make of vehicle but weak on another. Also, some of them speak in "Chinglish" which is funny but not always helpful. Danny is right, they do not compare to a...

Yeah the belt is walking a little... maybe incorrect belt tension but let 2Techs do their job and sort it mate. I hear very good things about them. Mick

top end no, bottom end yes... but be bloody carefull. Are you changing the bottom sprocket also or are you just running the outer solid pulley?

Another "as per Danny said"... 100% use a timesert rather than a heli-coil. Okay, it means taking the head off but they dont un-wind like helicoils and if you choose to do the oppersite be sure to tell anyone you let service the car know it has one so they aren't tripped up when they remove the...

Its the single wire to the alternator on its rear face... and its Mick (unless you pay) ;)

Re: Spark plug infomation Have you had any messages appear on the dash like "injection fault" or "anti-pollution fault"? I ask cos the 197/200 is getting common for the cam position sensor which causes a loud tick similar to injectors... CLIP time will confirm this. That pulley movement doesn't...

A faulty CTS will never throw an ODBII code which is why we never rely on "code reading" to trace problems. The live data however will and will look odd as they become inaccurate between certain ranges which the ECM translates to a temp reading (which it takes as gospel as there is no...

if its actual wiring then yeah, it *may* be beyond your skill set but i don't know what you do for a living. Personally i would advise you to remove the plug and look at the pins in the multiplug itself. Get some decent electrical cleaner and /or WD40 and give both the connector and pedal...

I'd deal with the DF002 first before replacing the TB. The amber ZigZag lamp is telling you there is a connection problem and i'd hazzard a guess that its the pedal/pedal wiring at fault. Mick

dampened pulleys are supposed to be replaced with aux belts and timing belts but they never get done due to price. Another great money maker that came about in the late 90's

No difference to you but it is there for a bloody good reason which is why it was put there. Its sole function is to aid cooling of the engine oil by adding a water cooled jacket... do you know what your actual oil temp is when driving? The car runs a turbo charger so theres one good reason for...

Haynes manual 1 spanner difficulty rating.... be careful! lol at the scare tactics though - the dealerships used to do this also. I have seen a K9K EGR valve lose its adaptives from being unplugged before though but thats a different matter. Out of curiosity/stupidity i'm gonna ask... what...

100% the diff circlip gone twaaaang.

So you didn't trust he settings that some dialed in and ran without issue no? The lights are on because the steering angle sensor is saying something isn't right and because of this it cannot execute the ESP/TC program (So switches off). Its not a sensor issue which is why it goes off until you...

I sound like a broken record today with this... needs proper diagnostics mate. The red light staying on indicates there is a connection problem somewhere on the car and its not necesarily on the ECM circuit (Confirmed by the UCH allowing the starter to run for 3 secs). It could be a wiring...

Coolant temp sensor is a safe bet but really the car needs proper diagnostics to see exactly what is causing the poor idle condition as it could be many things (faulty injection or ignition). Guessing can get expensive and waste your time so its not always "us" just after your cash. Mick

Did you check the wire to the charge circuit is fine/intact as its common for snapping? Mick

Or, another suggestion... why not take it back to the guy that did it and (whilst being nice) explain the situation. If he is the genuine mechanic you claim he should check it for you and rectify any problems and for free (unless the timing turns out to be spot on in which case you buy him a...

Oh dear, sounds like the SRS ECM may have triggered the primary and secondary driver airbag lines. You will need CLIP to confirm this but if it has you'll need a replacement SRS ECM as they are use once items. Mick

Thats it, remove the two 10mm bolts then up-end the rail. Disconnect the injector multiplug, slide out the lock pin then pull it clear then replace.

Why not buy a type-approved, non-genuine part from an autofactors for around £230... does exactly the same thing as the genuine item ;)