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1) Dale - R26.r - meganesport 2) Boomerbang2006 - ph1 172 - cliosport.net 3) ericooper - ph1 225 - meganesport - (work depending) 4) salty - ph2 225 cup - meganesport 5) domsclio182 - 182 - cliosport 6) breamy - 182 - cliosport 7) EnthuZiaZt- BMW Z3 2.0L - zroadster 8) theduck - z3 2.0l 9)...

Its slightly different on a phase 1 so my bad for not looking at what you drive... just get so used to people saying "imob fault" its a knee-jerk responce. A ph1 doesnt have a UCH per say but a multi-timer unit.

Jesus titty-fuckin christ, that's gotta be mentally fast!

They are replaceable yes but its not a DIY job i'm afraid unless you've got a decent bearing press in your kitchen.

Nope, i honestly doubt its an alternator issue as the charge circuit is completely isolated from the LED in the clockset as its UCH controlled. Another reason i believe this not to be the case is that nothing else is playing up. Mick

Prob will be the bearing but be sure to check the bottom ball joint, track-rod end and bottom arm bushes to see if they're the cause of your free play. Mick

Welcome to the mad house that is Renault ownership... enjoy!

A genuine OE Bosch is between £90-120. A quality NGK/NTK item is £65-80... why bother risking a £50 ching-chong 'universal' cheapo when this sensor is ultimatly responsible for the correct running/fuelling your car. A universal one may work or appear to work but may also sting your pocket by...

Looks like a generic satin black... i use it on my brake callipers when i refurb them for customers.

Still very much a work in progress i'm afraid

"Heated" O2 sensor

KTS (lolz) what an over priced piece of s**t that kit is. As Shep said above they are talking crap mate and chances are there is a crash code active that is inhibiting the vehicle starting (either that or you have a wiring fault). It really needs CLIP'n to be safe though as it'll not only read...

Using your generic camera phone/digital camera - point the keys business end at the camera and press the button - looking at the keyfobs IR diode thru the camera screen... can you see it briefly flash white? YES > Key working fine... fault most likely due to in-car IR reciever. NO > Dismantle...

The post-CAT Ho2 is purely a checking measure and It doesn't adjust the vehicles running. It simply triggers the MIL to say the emissions output is higher than it should be and that you may need a new CAT. Mick

Check the bearing carrier mount is properly bolted to the back of the block and that it has all bolts still in place. Mick

I'd say thats more likely to be a clutch master or slave cylinder issue rather than the box itself. Checked the brake fluid level recently? My Laguna was struggling to select 3rd when cold and just seemed to hit the gate on a PK6 box but as it warmed up it would finally crunch in as if the...

The easiest way to to resolve this is to look at your key... does it have an clear looking LED poking out? If so its an IR key and if not its RF. If you have an IR key let me know and i'll tell you how to test this. Really the car needs diagnostics specifically on the Imob system as the...

What scanner did you use as an eBay cheap-o-generic reader won't touch any systems other than the main engine management. Chances are theres an "impact detection" code somewhere in either the UCH or UPC/Imob. Out of curiosity what codes were cleared? I'm also assuming that you've check all the...

Check the decoder ring but that light is controlled by the UCH and as its flickering whilst the engine is running i'd be supprised if its the key code not being read as the car would prove difficult to start. I'd say its most likely a UCH fault (no doubt due to water/moisture ingress) and i'd...

Firstly disconnect the wiring to the Ho2 and check its intact and not melted on the exhaust. If thats all good then its an Ho2 sensor fault. Had a few do this when the heater element fails. Please buy a decent unit though (Bosch, NGK/NTK) rather then a cheap eBay/universal unit. Mick

Belt kit needs changing anyway but when you manage to get the old kit off check the alternator, water pump and PAS pulleys for signs of movement to... just to be sure! Mick

Don't use the Easi-Bleed, they're not that great on vehicles with ABS... although I use one for bleeding hydraulic clutches. Just be sure to keep the resevoir full and you'll be reet with that bit of tube with the non-return valve in it. Mick

This is very true... and a good point. There was a TSB about it I believe and requires a new alternator and some wiring IIRC

it is pretty difficult for any 'normal' person to fit these incorrectly as there's three holes in which you screw in three bolts... not rocket science.

Depends on the age of the 172 cup but theres a really good chance that the unit you've fitted is wrong for your car. Bring it in and i'll CLIP it for you. Mick

Possibly a belt tension issue: When you did the belt change you should have put the tensioner to its mark and then spun the pulley run (by hand) 4 to 8 times and then re-checked/adjusted the tensioner accordingly before locking up tbe sprockets and removing the lock tools... did you do this (be...

Have you had any diagnostics carried out yet on the vehicle? Don't replace parts like Map sensors on a whim mate as they're not cheap! OP - Have you checked the coils and confirmed them as working yet? The K4J does use these stupid things. Mick

Perfectly straight... sounds like the spring unit has failed mate so don't drive it until you've had the full aux. belt kit replaced. Mick

James23 has hit the proverbial nail on the head... it'll most likely be running on 3 because the plug lead isn't making contact with the plug. I've seen this a few times before now and its always the D7F/D4F cheap coilpacks that do it. It'll be the remains of an old plug lead end cap stuck on...

Shouldn't be no... usual suspects really: coil pack, leads, injector(s), H02 sensor