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Kind of correct except the "Deployment" code cannot be removed (By CLIP anyway). There are places that can do it online though. You will need to replace the seat airbag unit, covering and proberbly the pre-tensioner for that seat also... possibly even the side impact sensor. Mick

Yes please!

Keycards + Fat arses = FAIL I had my Laguna II card run over by a 3.5T Ford Iveco and it survived all be it a bit battered but still, very impressed when it actually unlocked my old GT.

Right, I would recomend that you take the car somewhere to get it looked at properly. I mean somewhere that is going to do more than "Code Read" as this will end up being something very silly causing the problem but it'll be a complete t**t to find! I've seen coilpacks do this kind of thing but...

They're made for people who "Go to tool box 'A' and remove tool 'MOT3478' and turn bolt 'C' to 45.37 degrees"

Where do you live?

100% DIS Ignition and no chance distributor then as above... where's the car based? I'm betting on a wiring issue in the short loom myself

Good on yer for fixing it but I'd guess at around £800-1k at least to fix properly unless you manage to get lucky with some parts from a breaking car in your colour.

Correct, its the flare itself that creates the actual leak-proof seal and the threads merely add the load to keep them in place. Standard lines are a steel construction and tend to last forever unless there are any obvious signs of damge such as flat spots or hammer marks. More stupid questions...

I don't believe i've ever seen a D4F with a distributor based ignition setup... what is the cars details; year, engine size, etc? Mick

Mate you were SO lucky there! Looks like the light area was the source of that fire to me though. If it were the fuel line the engine itslef would be blackened/burnt. Front end stuff isn't cheap but is easy enough to change and thankfully, the wiring looms you need will plug and play from a...

Are the union/calliper threads damaged? Are the fixings properly tight? Are the lines "factory" made or "hand" made on your driveway as the flairs may be the issue if you've made them. Mick

You will be able to get those kind of things but from the various manufacturers as Renault don't make them, they buy in. Injectors are Bosch, Clutch will be sold under on of the many guises of AP or Federal Mogul. Bosch's website does have a good listing section based on part numbers that shows...

If they cannot establish a connection with the SRS then the system itself is in fault but if he can then go with a wiring fault at the clockset or the SMD for the SRS lamp being tampered with. The clockset won't cost much to fix, just the cost of the SMD and a beer... probebrly cost more to send...

My bad, yes, I meant SRS not ABS. Anywhere with semi-decent diagnostics of the Snap-On variety will be able to reliably tell you wants wrong with the SRS. Easiest way to resolve the clockset SMD issue is to post it to me and I'll fit you a new one OR replace the clockset and re-run the bulb test.

Oh and SMD is a Surface Mounted Diode... Small, bright LED

They're SMD's not bulbs and rarely blow! Could be a broken wire or poor connection at the clockset I guess as the lights are triggered by +12v down each line via the UCH. Bulb test was step 1 and I'm afraid step 2 is diagnostics to try and establish a connection to the ABS module and see what's...

Right, they've destroyed the SMD then and a new unit is required. Then diagnostics to find and eventually fix the issue I'm afraid. Fooking pikeys - personally I hate this!

Not that one, that's to say the passenger bag is off when you put an ISOFIX child seat in. The one that's a picture of an airbag and seat. I'm on my blackberry now so can't Google image post one for you.

Proberbly due to the bulb being removed/broken as its in 'fault' status. We've got all this to come starting in January. Firstly we need to confirm this so go to the car, put key in ignition then BEFORE turning the key press and hold the wiper stalk button. Now turn the key but don't start...

Mate I'd offer to come out but I'm with a Megane Cup car today. Want to sell it yet? Seriously, interested. Mick

It doesn't cost much more to go to a Specialist though that's the thin as I do them for £380. Personally I don't slate a company or its ability for not being able to do the job without seeing their previous work. Maybe the guy is ex-Renault and knows this job inside out? I've been working on...

Yep, disrespect it and mess about with the connections whilst the system has power and you could set off the pre-tensioners or worse, dash/curtain bags which cost mega bucks to replace. The entire system has a dedicated computer which actively monitors resistance values on multiple wires known...

The one thing you need to be sure is that he releases the cam sprockets and IF there's any oil leaks from the upper cover that it is removed, cleaned and resealed! If he's there for 4hrs or less then get him to call me, i've got a job for him.

Mate, if you want to use NVS then go ahead... you pay your money you take your chance! If it works out for you and if you're happy then great but if it goes wrong or they get it wrong expect this lot to do the "i told you so" dance. The warnings are there not to scare people to traders such as...

Yes that and be sure you get the correct wires connected.

@ Sam - This is the "MIL" or "Malfunction Indicator Light"... it can come on for a number of reasons including Post-CAT H02 sensor when people de-CAT but it can also come on for many different reasons. Yes, a blowing exhaust could trigger the MIL depending on the size and position of the leak as...

What kind of "Racket" was it Lee; beeping, clicking, metallic rattle? Firstly check the battery and alternator condition and then look for any loose/broken wires. Mick

Chances are it'll be due to the wiring under the drivers or passnegers seat at fault but ideally diagnostics will confirm as it could be anything on anyone of the 13 trigger lines on that vehicle (Normally the seats or clock-ring though). The connections are in a poor area to get kicked or...