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And also achieve something BMW's design team failed to create... something worth looking at. This car is like Cher Lloyd and one of those things I wish I could un-see
Yep, a Haynes for the D7F will show you how to do everything. Trust me though, timing and tappets on this engine is child's play so take your time, read up the process before starting work and providing you understand it and allow yourself time you'll be fine. Also, no specialist tools required...
Timing belt check on these is easy. Jack under sump, remove engine mount and cover bolts - Inspect timing belt for obvious signs of damage (though for the price, around £37 IIRC, you might aswell fit a new kit if you've got this far).
Setting tappets is a real easy DIY job but you will need a...
Firstly, comfirm the timing belt setup is okay and then, as above service it... oil and filter isn't much for the D7F. Secondly, reset the tappet clearances... this needs to be done when the engine is cold.
Mick
Not entirely true Danny, there is a timing mark on the crank. There is a notch for a woodruff key and when 1/4 are at TDC it lines up with a casting mark. To be fair though its more of a "Confirmation you've got the crank pin inserted correctly" mark than an actual timing mark.
It does 100%...
If i'm correct, its been a while since i've seen a D4F Clio II, the fan is ECM controlled and a signal is taken from the coolant temp sensor in the cylinder head. It'll be one of the following causing the fault:
Controlled earth to the fan control relay at fault
+12v wire to the fan control...
It'll be the Climate sensor fan.... very common and has been covered a fair few times before buddy.
Its nothing to worry about but it is very annoying. You can strip the unit down and clean it up or you can go to Renault, hand over the best part of £100 and then fit a new part.
Mick
Deffo sounds like a toasted and collapsed CAT - time for a new one!
I echo the above, disconnect from Pre-CAT section + run engine + annoy neighbors. If it runs fine you have conclusive proof its the CAT.
Mick
I can understand why he *thought* it was a good idea... hold the tensioner spring with something like a jubilee clip then quickly buzz off the 18mm and allow the belt to drop as well as improving access to the water pump - what could possibly go wrong huh? (Face - Palm). Finding and setting TDC...
A flashing MIL means you've got a Level 2 fault; its not so serious that it restricts the driving of the vehicle but it can do damage to the CAT if you don't get it rectified.
Normal causes are faults in the injection or ignition system but a diagnostic session will tell you exactly what and...
Oh dear... that's done it!
The crank has no woodrough key as it is a floating setup... I'm sure you're now aware of this. Did you hear any kind of metallic "Tink" noises when you cranked it over? DON'T attempt to run the engine again but can you remember if it made any attempt to fire up when...
That means absolutely nothing... might be the code reader itself saying everything is okay. This is why we don't use cheap readers from eBay in the trade ;)
Yes it'll be detecting too much O2 so the mV will be right down and possibly assuming there's a leak in the exhaust allowing O2 in.
Clear it and see if it comes back. If not, great - carry on until it does and reset it again. If it comes back striaght away its possibloe you have a wiring...
Both of those part numbers are vendor specific numbers. The actual Conti-Tech part number for the kit you want is CT977K1 between 2000 - 2001 and CT977K2 for vehicles 2001 onwards.
I've never fitted a K1 before so couldn't tell you the difference but I suspect it'll have the same belt...