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Thats terrible - its almost like someone purposefully designed it to look disabled

It can do yes - My Alfa was parked up in the corner of a farmers field for two years. Because of this the A/C control relay and main earth for the SRS had given up so needed repairing before either would work again. Easy enough fix IF you know what you're doing but SRS really isn't an area to be...

These engines are heavy breathers and a swimming pool of oil in the resonator box is normal - Pull the inlet off and you'll be able to see the source.

Doesn't have a MAF - It'll deffo be TB/IACV related Mick

First things first then, I'd be pulling the TB out of the inlet and giving it a bloody good clean as chances are its not been done in a long, long time. Then I'd be looking at the wiring as the 1.2 16v is plagued with electrical gremlins. Whoever you take it to, just be sure they know the Clio...

That's what the missus said the other night... best 15mins she's had I tell ya! Nagh, parts washers take too long mate; elbow grease, wire brush (Not too harsh obviously) and a tin of brake cleaner.... Job done. I did one on a K4J Clio II in Sheffield on Wednesday and admittedly the cover...

Plugs: NGK 4xPFR6E-10 Oil: 5w/40 Fully Sythentic Belt kits look right

Personally I always use the Renault kits as I get them at a great price but if people ask me to do it cheaper I've used Continental 'Conti-Tech' kits without any issues as my local SKF supplier is on drugs and wants too much. Even the Conti-Tech tensioner sets are all OE (Littens) and the belts...

Is it actual vehicle speed dependant or is it engine speed dependant? Wheel bearings or binding brake are a good place to start so have a feel for slightly warm rims after a good drive. Mick

Yep its a job that involves taking the covers off, clean up the mating faces and re-seal them... its an extra 15-20minute job when doing the timing belt and the best time really. He will need to take the pulleys off though to get the covers to come away from the cams but if the person doing your...

What Clio is it please... 172, 182 or something else? It really should be looked at matey as there's a few things it could be but without seeing it makes it hard to say what exactly... oh and guessing can get expensive! I'm only in Nottingham if you want to drop in or Fred is in Birmingham and...

I guess they would be compatible but I bet they look even worse behind a cheap, aftermarket dial face set and shine thru too much causing it all to "white-out" Each to thier own but i'd leave the standard SMD's alone Mick

Even at idle speed the crank is pushing the pistons up and down over 800 times a minute and the valves are double that - It will have bent some of them and they may not be overly obvious when closed so pull the head and open each valve to see the stems and if there are any signs of damage...

Non bar the price you will have paid. Tensioner and idlers are all OE Spec and the belts are the same bar with the exception of the Renault item will have a "7701" number printed on it where as I don't believe the Gates one will.

The orange "SERV" lamp is there to say "take me to a dealer" as something isn't quite right but you're okay to carry on driving and also as above, check the basic things first such as oil level as this can bring on the "SERV" lamp if its low. Failing that, I suspect some other bulb has either...

Valves will have bent... sorry, I don't do loaning of my tools as they always get mistreated/misused.

Bring it down... I'll gladly take a look at it for you sometime. Mick

I agree, check the ECM has +12v where required when the key is turned first as it can't recognise rotation or prime the fuel pump if its not actually working. Mick

You're not cleaning it up properly then... either that or there are other problems. Are you actually improving the earth condition by cleaning them? Test them with a multimeter if you have one to hand. Mick

The connectors under the seat are indeed problematic so always a good place to start but they're not always the cause... I do more lateral crash sensors on Clio II's if i'm honest than I do the connectors under the seats (3 last week). Mick

Yeah it does other things to like one-touch windows, intermittent wiper delays, interior light timers... can be programmed to do more also but that depends on model/spec

Deffo sounds like PS Pump...I assume you've checked the fluid level yes? Either way take the aux belt off again and run it to see if the noise has gone and then feel the pump for any signs of failure or stiffness in the bearing race. Don't let it run for ages as the water pump is aux. belt...

Its a CPU controlled unit which non-user servicable. Its PCB based and as far as I know, no schematic exists outside of the manufacturers walls i'm afraid. I was tempted to detail one myself many moons ago but gave up as its easier to replace them than to repair them (Though I do carry out some...

Re: Misfire issue which is solved by a restart - spark plugs, leads, coilpack 6 month "Re-programmed" ECM's are easy prey to blame when you do'nt know whats occuring. How exactly has it been "Re-programmed" firstly and secondly are the plug wells dry (No signs of oil and/or water in them)? Mick

Assuming its a cabled throttle body and not steppper actuated then as above, IACV fault/fouled up. Mici

Needs plugging in to say for sure i'm afraid. Could be Clockring, Crash Sensors, Pre-Tensioners or a bad connector somewhere. Mick

Need to see the car to say i'm afraid but it does sound like the UCH has fried if you can't find any signs of fire damage (such as toasted wiring). Proberbly water ingress as its fairly common but not to this degree. Have a nose (literally) around the passenger footwell and see if there are...

On some vehicles yes... I know this works on the Astra G as i've done it myself but I don't think it works with EM faults on the Clio II

I promise you it will have... it might not have triggered the MIL but a code would have been generated

Okay, the photos are of a Megane II setup, NOT a Clio II but it is a similar setup: Steering Angle Sensor - "Zeroed" NOTE: The "0" is dead central in the aperture Steering Angle Sensor - "Turning Left" Steering Angle Sensor - "Turning Right" If you've set the wheel straight on...