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Its been a while since i'mve played with a Clio II SAS but I happen to have a Megane II unit right here so gimme a sec and i'll upload some pictures of it. Mick

Yeah I remember that... sorry I didn't really have time to dig at it with you. The MAP Sensor goes someway to explaining why the H02 was reporting a fault then as it would've been over fuelling like a biatch. Also demonstrates how unreliable generic ODB codes are for finding actual faults. Mick

Tappets... they're always an easy item to blame and its rare, no, very rare they cause an issue on the F4R engine... Fred's no doubt right but obviously a quick check of the inlet cam via the setting point will say for sure if there's play in the assembly. Mick

Did you run it with the MAP sensor (or any other sensor) unplugged? If so it will have logged a fault code... sometimes, the light will go off after 3 cycles of successful startups. Failing that it'll need plugging in to destroy them and turn the light off. Mick

This is an F4R yes and not and IDE? I doubt an H02 sensor would cause a car to just die completely and not restart... We need more info please on the actual symptoms. Also, have they had the live data up and then seen what happens when its thrown in to crawling traffic scenarios? Mick

The coolant temp sensor is on the right hand side of the engine and is the only sensor screwed in to the thermostat housing... it has two wires coming from the multiplug. The sports do have a rather lumpy cold start idle which is oftern confused as a problem when its quite normal however...

Rob, yeah I'm going "Chewi" with Daveski in his 172 but i'm not going as a trader as Dan wanted help with some prizes and I can't really give what I do away as I don't deal in tangable products per say. I will have a basic level of tools and diagnostics with me... its a Renault meeting after all...

The steering angle sensor is a rotary switch totally separate to the steering column as its built in to the steering wheel comms unit (That's the bit that has all the control stalks on it). If you've knocked this out of alignment it will cause issues which is why the SAS Comms units normally...

+1 - Bang On! Steering Angle is calculated from the steering column angle and would only trigger the ESP/ABS + SERV lights if the clockring itself had a comms issue [i](Or if hte actual steering angle sensor had been tampered with to make it show +/-7 degrees at the rest position)[i] Mick

It depends... my understanding on what you've sid is: The pre-tensioners have fired. No other SRS uit deployed You removed your SRS module It has been "Reset" to to remove the crash event Am I missing anything else? "7E00" generally means the SRS module is in a "LOCKED" state meaning it...

Or, if you have access to decent diagnostic kit you can go in to the config for the SRS module and put it into a "LOCKED" state which stops the unit from detecting any of the trigger lines and accidentally deploying the units... it saves faffing about with the battery and losing the customers...

Might be worth having it plugged in to see which 'door' is playing silly buggers and reporting it's open to the UCH when it infact isn't... Live data = WIN There's a common issue on the 206's that causes the locks to "bounce" thus stopping you from locking it up at night... new door lock unit...

I work anywhere and everywhere so if you're desperate you can give me a call. You need to have the SRS module "unlocked" to resolve the '7E00' code not the "ECU" as that has nothing to do with the control functions of the airbags. It would be nice to know exactly why the SRS module has been sent...

So you ignored the advice I gave about not running the vehicle until it had been properly diagnosed? The issue isn't going to magically go away and fix itself with ignorance I'm afraid and you really do need to have the car seen by a specialist that not only knows what they're on with with...

In situations like these there are several problems that can cause the SRS and SERV lights to come on. Common ones are: Pre-tensioners (Commonly known as "Wires under the seat" fault) Side impact sensors Clock-ring/Steering Angle Sensor (Airbag squib) Guessing exactly which is causing isn't...

People really do need to stop looking at EODB "Generic" codes as being gospel as there's loads of codes that are pertinent to actual faults and computer states but do don't start with P, U, C, Etc! "7E00" is the hex code for the Siemens SRS computer being in 'SAFE' mode meaning its been...

The cost of a major service on a 1.2 8v DIET unit is going to be under £40 anyway... why not push that boat out indeed

Yeah, tappet clearances will need setting... easy enough DIY service job or you can pay a local garage to do it for you. Mick

Start simple... check the TB isn't fouled up with nasty thick, tar like breather oil. If so, clean and refit... job should be a good'un. I'll come out anywhere nationally but it'll cost yer ;) Mick

Yep, its an aluminium alloy sump and nope, the fact its on a Cup makes no difference. F4R-7XX sumps are all the same.

Not the news you were wanting to hear I guess but its true.... Dephaser unit required meaning new timing belt and aux kit to. On the plus side, the Aux kits are only £60 + vat now and not £108 + vat See that... some good news right there ;) Mick

There's not really much difference between the various Elm software i'm afraid... ability wise they're all equally limited to the few modes that ELM327 can access but graphically some are better than others. Personally, I like the look of ScanMaster over most

Exactly, just keep the original blade from the original keyfob

So it's working now?

As Jonny said, if you have the matched setup its plug and play... the clips holding the UCH in though can be a rate "See You Next Tuesday" mind.

Are you THAT desperate for a holiday Fred? LMGDAO Done this kind of thing before - You take exactly what you need and have it security checked before/after.... no drama's!

You're going to struggle then without a DMM... they're essential diagnostic tools on modern cars and only cost £10 for a basic but functional unit. The 120A fuse is part of the + Terminal on the battery. Lift it off and turn it over to see the fused link... you're looking for any hairline...

Yeah an up-to-date Modus will be fine with Renault Live Data mapping but if you do have any issues a Clip is a usefull thing to have in your tool kit ;)

Agreed, the ballast is the most likely cause but its always prudent to check the LV +12v and earths that feed the ballasts before spending out on anything. If they stick a DMM on the HV side then then ask them to call me before they do as I want to come watch the tech learn a very simple but...

Code reading is not diagnostics matey, that's what silly garages call it though as they don't know how to use the tool correctly. Its only a car at the end of the day and everything is fixable so don't panick and if its a management/load issue the live data will throw it up. There is a product...